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 ADVANCED
b. Jackie and friends
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unsorted Routes:

Slightly Roddey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Marguerite Baumann, Bill Kemsley, Bill Goldner, 1959
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Mar 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: First bit of P1 of Roddey. cam in corner to prote...

Description 

An interesting short problem in the giant roof between Roddy and Jackie. The start has a few moves of crimpy slab climbing, then reach up and start pulling the obvious, chalked up holds on the roof. A sequency and somewhat powerful crux.

A harder variation avoids the good holds and uses the loose flake undercling to the left.

In 2010, the tree just above the roof was felled by a storm, which may radically change the anchor situation for this route.

Protection 

Slightly Roddy is usually TR'd, but the gear seems ok. Set up a TR from Roddy or Belly Roll.


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By chewtoynj
Apr 23, 2010

I led this once a long time ago. It was a cool lead, but more like a roped up boulder problem with a shitty fall. It's protected well enough if you want to hang out in it.