Sliding Board 5.7 R
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| Type: | Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | B Crowther and B Gilmore 1959/1960 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 18, 2007 |
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My dad (Ernie Hansche) on sliding board (5.7) with...
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Description A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared.A great place to hone your slab climbing skills.Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure. Start from the launch pad. Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch. Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts along a steep ramp. Belay on small gear in a crack with an old pin. or traverse left to a two bolt anchor. Pitch three (5.5): The mental crux for most. Straight up and a little right climbing past 1 bolt on this 100ft pitch. The climbing is moderate but feels harder due to the smooth rock and long runout. Pitch 4 (5.5): move right to a pretty left facing corner with a nice crack, up this to gain a dike and shortly after, a comfortable stance at a slanting corner.Belay from here with gear. Pitch 5 (5.6): A couple ways to do this one. You can move up and right across smooth slab over an overlap to a slippery dike or stay left of the dike in a good grove then traversing right to the last few feet of the dike. Either way you do it you are heading for a two bolt anchor below the dike that splits the steep headwall. The direct dike is a bit spooky but more fun in my opinion where as the left option is better protected, easier, but harder to see the line. Pitch 6 (5.5): Steep but moderate climbing gets you up the 20ft headwall and on to the truly moderate climbing.. Up the easy dike to a good stance. belay from gear. Pitch 7 (5.3): Up dikes and left over a slab to a tree belay. Pitches 8 and 9 (5.1 ish): I normally simulclimb them clipping the one bolt between the tree and the summit.Follow the dike or choose your own adventure.Belay from trees above, or stop to belay from 1 bolt at the halfway mark.
Location Follow directions to the launch pad from Whitehorse directions.... From the top turn right (north) and follow a trail down... Many parties rap down with 2 ropes after doing the harder pitches to avoid the hike....
Protection Standard rack, tricams helpful in solution pockets.... Some pitches are run out giving it the R rating.... The physical crux is well protected but there is some spooky climbing on most pitches for those not comfortable running it out on 5.5 and under....
BETA PHOTO: High on Sliding Board - who needs holds.
| Slabs from a distance
| a party on sliding board...
| The Standard Route (center), with a wet Sliding Bo...
| Looking down pitch four, from the start of the nic...
| A leader on Sliding Board, taken from the Standard...
| Diane starting up the "Sliding Board"
| Lee heading starting up pitch "four"
| Looking up at the upper part of Sliding Board
| Alberto doing some beautiful layback moves on the ...
| A party of two in the third pitch of Sliding Board...
| lily in the fun corner on pitch 4...
| Lily demonstrating my favorite move on the route.....
| lily on pitch 2
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| Comments on Sliding Board |
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By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Feb 20, 2007 rating: 5.7 R
| Most people rap from the end of pitch 5 since this is the last place where a fixed rap station can be found. However, this does not allow you to climb the steep headwall, one of the best stretches of climbing on the route. The walk-off isn't really that bad, and the view from the summit makes it worth walking off, in my opinion. |
By Steve Marr From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 19, 2007
| We "discovered" an interesting variation to Sliding Board when there was a steady stream of water trickling down the second pitch. From the first belay, step right, climb up a steep slab, and gain the 2nd pitch of Tidal Wave. Follow the white rock just above the rim of the arch in one long, run out pitch to a horizontal flake. You can get a little protection in a flaring crack before traversing right to a bolted anchor (clipping into the anchors was a relief). Rejoin Sliding Board's 4th pitch above the anchors. |
By john strand From: southern colo Jul 12, 2008
| An excellent climb- 49 years ago !!!! Willie climbed in Tennis shoes and basically placed no gear. |
By "H" From: Garden of Gods Jan 17, 2009
| great climb! However this one got me hating slabs!! Need to come back east to climb one of these years. |
By Matt Desenberg From: Wells, Me May 1, 2009
| I too "discovered" the variation described above. Quite runout, but not a bad way to climb the route. I was also able to clip a third bold on the right side of the white streak. From there, run it out to the V-shaped flake and it's almost a full pitch. |
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Jul 14, 2009
| I found today that pitch two and three can be run together in one pitch no problem. |
By A Terray From: San Diego, CA Aug 11, 2009
| Wonderful climb! Anyone know if this is considered a grade III? |
By Victor Grau Serrat From: Cambridge, MA May 31, 2010 rating: 5.7
| Nope, this is considered grade II. The explanation for the commitment ratings is as follows: Grade II would be for about half a day, up to 5 to 6 pitches, whereas Grade III would be up to 7 to 8 hours. Fairly serious. Taken from: Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire by Ed Webster and published by Mountain Imaginery (1996). I climbed Sliding Board two days ago, and it took us about 4 hours to do the entire 8 pitches. |
By doligo Jul 12, 2010 rating: 5.7 R
| Great route. Turns out I'm bad at route-finding (ended up doing the P2 of Intrloper oops). Re: gear, I followed Marc Chauvin's beta and brought a standard rack up to #3, which was a total overkill. The biggest gear I placed was #1 Camalot and only because I had it. Mostly used tricams (pink and red - could have left the brown at the base), small wires, Aliens (blue, green and yellow) and C3s. 5 trad draws is more than enough. |
By Devin McPhillips Oct 18, 2010 rating: 5.7 R
| The upper pitches (5 and 6 especially) were very wet this weekend, and based on the water stains and moss buildup I bet they are wet on most weekends of the year. P1-4 were excellent, though, and I would do them again but rappel down from the 2-bolt anchor on Wavelength. Route-finding was also a challenge. Guidebooks and beta talk about dikes. These are subtle features, apparent mostly as textural differences that fade in and out. Best to get a photo of the splitter dike in the headwall (start of P6) and remember it. |
By Tim Waystrong From: New Hampshire Sep 17, 2011 rating: 5.6 R
| You can do this climb in 6 pitches. By linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches together. Then linking the 5th and 6th pitches together. You only need a 60m rope for this too. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 9, 2012
| I've always wanted to climb this in under a half hour... today simul-climbing with my friend jakob we did it from Launch Pad to the tree at the top in 18 minutes! :) |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 9, 2012
| thanks much the the party who let us pass them... we owe you one... |
By Brendan Blanchard From: Strafford, NH Apr 28, 2013
| Did for the first time today. We should have linked pitched 2&3, instead we linked 4&5** and 6&7**, both are obviously run out to start, so it doesn't change that much. The bolt on the last 2 pitches/simul finish was missing it's hangar. I failed to spot it on the way up, but another party told me it had no hangar. Unfortunately, a 70m will not link those two final easy pitches.
- *We used a 70m, and had >15 feet left at the end of both links.
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