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My dad (Ernie Hansche) on sliding board (5.7) with...
A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared.A great place to hone your slab climbing skills.Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure.
Start from the launch pad.
Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch.
Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts along a steep ramp. Belay on small gear in a crack with an old pin. or traverse left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch three (5.5): The mental crux for most.
Straight up and a little right climbing past 1 bolt on this 100ft pitch. The climbing is moderate but feels harder due to the smooth rock and long runout.
Pitch 4 (5.5): move right to a pretty left facing corner with a nice crack, up this to gain a dike and shortly after, a comfortable stance at a slanting corner.Belay from here with gear.
Pitch 5 (5.6): A couple ways to do this one. You can move up and right across smooth slab over an overlap to a slippery dike or stay left of the dike in a good grove then traversing right to the last few feet of the dike. Either way you do it you are heading for a two bolt anchor below the dike that splits the steep headwall. The direct dike is a bit spooky but more fun in my opinion where as the left option is better protected, easier, but harder to see the line.
Pitch 6 (5.5): Steep but moderate climbing gets you up the 20ft headwall and on to the truly moderate climbing.. Up the easy dike to a good stance. belay from gear.
Pitch 7 (5.3): Up dikes and left over a slab to a tree belay.
Pitches 8 and 9 (5.1 ish): I normally simulclimb them clipping the one bolt between the tree and the summit.Follow the dike or choose your own adventure.Belay from trees above, or stop to belay from 1 bolt at the halfway mark.
Follow directions to the launch pad from Whitehorse directions....
From the top turn right (north) and follow a trail down... Many parties rap down with 2 ropes after doing the harder pitches to avoid the hike....
Standard rack, tricams helpful in solution pockets.... Some pitches are run out giving it the R rating.... The physical crux is well protected but there is some spooky climbing on most pitches for those not comfortable running it out on 5.5 and under....
BETA PHOTO: High on Sliding Board - who needs holds.
Slabs from a distance
a party on sliding board...
The Standard Route (center), with a wet Sliding Bo...
Looking down pitch four, from the start of the nic...
A leader on Sliding Board, taken from the Standard...
Diane starting up the "Sliding Board"
Lee heading starting up pitch "four"
Looking up at the upper part of Sliding Board
Alberto doing some beautiful layback moves on the ...
A party of two in the third pitch of Sliding Board...
lily in the fun corner on pitch 4...
Lily demonstrating my favorite move on the route.....
lily on pitch 2
|Comments on Sliding Board
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 20, 2007
rating: 5.7 R
Most people rap from the end of pitch 5 since this is the last place where a fixed rap station can be found. However, this does not allow you to climb the steep headwall, one of the best stretches of climbing on the route. The walk-off isn't really that bad, and the view from the summit makes it worth walking off, in my opinion.
|By Steve Marr|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 19, 2007
We "discovered" an interesting variation to Sliding Board when there was a steady stream of water trickling down the second pitch. From the first belay, step right, climb up a steep slab, and gain the 2nd pitch of Tidal Wave. Follow the white rock just above the rim of the arch in one long, run out pitch to a horizontal flake. You can get a little protection in a flaring crack before traversing right to a bolted anchor (clipping into the anchors was a relief). Rejoin Sliding Board's 4th pitch above the anchors.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jul 12, 2008
An excellent climb- 49 years ago !!!! Willie climbed in Tennis shoes and basically placed no gear.
From: Garden of Gods
Jan 17, 2009
great climb! However this one got me hating slabs!! Need to come back east to climb one of these years.
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
May 1, 2009
I too "discovered" the variation described above. Quite runout, but not a bad way to climb the route. I was also able to clip a third bold on the right side of the white streak. From there, run it out to the V-shaped flake and it's almost a full pitch.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 14, 2009
I found today that pitch two and three can be run together in one pitch no problem.
|By A Terray|
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 11, 2009
Wonderful climb! Anyone know if this is considered a grade III?
|By Victor Grau Serrat|
From: Cambridge, MA
May 31, 2010
Nope, this is considered grade II. The explanation for the commitment ratings is as follows: Grade II would be for about half a day, up to 5 to 6 pitches, whereas Grade III would be up to 7 to 8 hours. Fairly serious. Taken from: Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire by Ed Webster and published by Mountain Imaginery (1996).
I climbed Sliding Board two days ago, and it took us about 4 hours to do the entire 8 pitches.
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.7 R
Great route. Turns out I'm bad at route-finding (ended up doing the P2 of Intrloper oops). Re: gear, I followed Marc Chauvin's beta and brought a standard rack up to #3, which was a total overkill. The biggest gear I placed was #1 Camalot and only because I had it. Mostly used tricams (pink and red - could have left the brown at the base), small wires, Aliens (blue, green and yellow) and C3s. 5 trad draws is more than enough.
|By Devin McPhillips|
Oct 18, 2010
rating: 5.7 R
The upper pitches (5 and 6 especially) were very wet this weekend, and based on the water stains and moss buildup I bet they are wet on most weekends of the year. P1-4 were excellent, though, and I would do them again but rappel down from the 2-bolt anchor on Wavelength.
Route-finding was also a challenge. Guidebooks and beta talk about dikes. These are subtle features, apparent mostly as textural differences that fade in and out. Best to get a photo of the splitter dike in the headwall (start of P6) and remember it.
|By Tim Waystrong|
From: New Hampshire
Sep 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 R
You can do this climb in 6 pitches. By linking the 2nd and 3rd pitches together. Then linking the 5th and 6th pitches together. You only need a 60m rope for this too.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2012
I've always wanted to climb this in under a half hour... today simul-climbing with my friend jakob we did it from Launch Pad to the tree at the top in 18 minutes! :)
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2012
thanks much the the party who let us pass them... we owe you one...
|By Brendan Blanchard|
From: Strafford, NH
Apr 28, 2013
Did for the first time today. We should have linked pitched 2&3, instead we linked 4&5** and 6&7**, both are obviously run out to start, so it doesn't change that much.
The bolt on the last 2 pitches/simul finish was missing it's hangar. I failed to spot it on the way up, but another party told me it had no hangar. Unfortunately, a 70m will not link those two final easy pitches.
- *We used a 70m, and had >15 feet left at the end of both links.