Getting to the roof may be the crux if you're shor...
This route is located at the far west end (left side) of Cactus Cliff on the face just left of Crynoid Corner. It is listed as the first route in the Thompson guide, but Spray Lord is a new route just left of Slicer. Once a scary lead, Slicer has been retrobolted and can be led using only bolts.
I would divide this route into two distinct sections with the first being much better than the second. The route starts with a small roof that you kind of have to thug over, probably easier for taller people. Many variations here depending on if you are on TR or lead, height, preference of holds, etc. Gain the face and climb fairly fun rock to a large ledge. Continue up the center of the second face to the anchors. The second section of climbing seemed to be way easier than the first.
Seems this climb has been rebolted and now sports 7-8 bolts making it a safe climb. The crux is pulling up to a stance above the initial overhang. There is another spot at the top of the initial wall that makes one pause. It looked like one could go up either right or left. There is a good hidden hold on the edge if one goes left.
Fun route but definitely height-dependent crux. My 6' friend pulled up under the roof and grabbed the key hold up high. I had to do a much more serious intermediate move to gain the same hold. There's a second crux up high that is also height-dependent but easy to circumvent. In fact, I think going straight up on this upper section takes this climb past the .10s.
By mountainmicah83 From: Colorado Springs Feb 28, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
The anchors are horrible on this route. I was terrified after top roping this route after my partner. They are so far apart. He used 20cm draws and they were pulled almost totally horizontal. I used double length runners to try and lessen the angle. If you plan on having someone TR this bring some longer runners to make it better angles.
The opening crux over the roof is the only section worthy of the 10a rating the Thompson guidebook gives it. Lots of rests on ledges after the intital push. I agree with mtnmicah83... bring some long runners if you're going to top rope. I used 60cm slings to build an anchor for TR.
Just ascended this climb, and the top left anchor is loose in the rock. After setting up a top rope and rappelling down, my weight (180 lbs) makes the bolt of the anchor wobble in the rock about 2-3mm.
Def. do not recommend using this climb for top roping or climbing it till the anchor is replaced; however, the right top anchor is solid.