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Slhanay (The Squaw)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birds of Prey T 
Face Your Creator T 
Feather, The T 
Great Game, The T 
Jungle Warfare T 
Photophobia T 
Pipeline T 
Right Wing T 
XTC Crack T 
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Slhanay (The Squaw) 


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Location: 49.6945, -123.1216 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,530
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ian Wolfe on Jul 25, 2006
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The Squaw. 6/2011

Photo: Corey Gargano

Description 

The Squaw has a selection of excellent climbs, which, combined with its reletive seclusion and shady aspect, make this a great place to go on hot summer days. All climbs on the Squaw are fairly difficult, with nothing below the 10a rating. Great views of the town and of the North Gully of the Chief can be had from the wall, and much of the leftern reaches have yet to be explored.

The descent is down the right side of the formation on a somewhat obscure trail. Follow this down to a 4th class chimney with a fixed line. Continue down the trail until it meets up with the approach trail.


Getting There 

Take the forest service road about 1.5km past the Apron parking area to a small pull-out on the right. The approach trail is typically overgrown and tropical (like most at Squamish) but fairly straitforward.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',6],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Slhanay (The Squaw):
Jungle Warfare   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   
Birds of Prey   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
Photophobia   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 360'   
Pipeline   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 170'   
The Great Game   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Right Wing   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Featured Route For Slhanay (The Squaw)
the crux of the final pitch... overhanging kneebar to reach the top of the flake

Right Wing 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Slhanay (The Squaw)
Right Wing seeps and remains wet until the beginning of July (unless there's a dry spring). Keep this one for mid to late summer.P1. Climb Eagles Domain (same start as for Birds of Prey), a finger crack up a slab (5.8) for 60m then move right to the base of the major Right Wing corner system (70m).P2. A short, technical sport pitch (10c)P3. The Filibuster. A blockbuster lead, going through all the sizes. Not a move harder than 10b, not a move easier than 10a... for 58m. Prepare for battle.P4. Wh...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Slhanay (The Squaw) Slideshow Add Photo
Collin getting into position to pull around the roof on Supernatural.
Collin getting into position to pull around the ro...
The Forest Service road with the Squaw formation in the background.
The Forest Service road with the Squaw formation i...
Getting ready to place a piece after pulling around the opening roof of Supernatural.
Getting ready to place a piece after pulling aroun...
The descent chimney
The descent chimney
Comments on Slhanay (The Squaw) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 4, 2009

I went up to The Squaw for the first time this weekend. It's a fantastic area! The routes tend to towards vertical cracks, but there are some overhangs and roofs, and the rock quality is great.

There was a laminated sheet with some new route information at the base. Mr. Barley has been at it again. It appears that there are two new routes starting just left of the first pitch of Birds of Prey. I don't remember the details (I'll try to get them), but at least one of them was another 4 pitch 10+.

The descent is a very interesting scramble through a cave formed by some house-sized blocks.