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To find this route, hike into the Gallery Canyon and up to the Menses' Prow. Head left (west) past the California Ethics pinnacle. Just beyond the pinnacle is a nice, south-facing wall of light tan color. There is a faint, crack system (not the nasty chimney) that splits the wall in two. Climb this shallow crack on edges and pockets, and protected by well place bolts. Crux is up towards the top. You can thug your way through this one or use the twinkle toes technique. Good route.
The second pitch, while rarely done, has a few fun moves on it as well. These two pitches can be easily climbed as one.
The book says 4 bolts and anchors on P1, but for some reason I want to say that it is 5 bolts and anchors. Second pitch is 4 bolts and anchors.
Almost @ first anchor.
1st of many cruxes...
Taking a lap.
Loved the route. A little greasy at the crux.
|By Kreighton Bieger|
Apr 8, 2002
I think the Knapp book says this is 11c for the entire route. I don't know if it's that hard, but it definitely felt harder than 10d on the second part. I think more like 11a/b. Done as one long lead, it's pretty pumpy.
|By Joe Collins|
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
If you're calling the extension (p2) 10d, then I have my doubts that you've actually climbed it. I'll stick with the Knapp rating of 11c. It's a touch easier than Graceland, the hard-11c to the right, but harder than No Passion for Fassion, the 11b/c on the front side of the Prow.
|By Tevis Blom|
Sep 9, 2004
I tried to link the two pitches and was shut down at the upper crux... So close! I think the upper move felt about like 11a, but was really pumpy after doing the rest of the route. maybe next trip. If you can keep thugging upward a jug appears right before the anchors.
|By Scott Edwards|
Nov 29, 2005
The only way to do this climb is in one pitch. It would be ridiculous to split it into two.
|By Layne Wyse|
From: Pgh, PA
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
If you only climb P1, you miss the fun stuff. String it together and get the real deal.
|By Caleb Phillips|
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
It's nice as two pitches because the grade is different above and below the lower anchors. I led the top and my gf led the bottom which was nice. The top is solid 11b, the bottom solid 10c. Linked it's awesome, but is definitely pumpy - the upper crux is legit. I can't compare to No Passion for Fashion cause I haven't climbed it, but it's at least as hard as Silverado on Contest Wall, which Knapp calls 11b.
|By Curt Nelson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I didn't think it was as good as the 4 stars the guide book gives it. It is a good warm up with 10c climbing for the first part and then 11a (although a little tricky with the side pulls) for the second part. 9 bolts and anchors.