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 ADVANCED
North Face & Northwest Corner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Dreaming T,S 
Call Evita 911 T 
Doldrums T 
Fourplay T 
Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
Leaping Lizards T 
McCarthy's North Face T 
Mystic and the Mulchers T 
Psychic Turbulance T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Spiney Norman T 
Whine and Bruises T 

Sleight of Hand 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman & Josh "Magic Man" Balt 9/10/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 18, 2009

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The line, with the upper section greatly foreshort...

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Description 

Climb more or less directly up the arete between P1 of Mac North (on the right) and P1 of Leaping Lizards (on the left). Good solid small edges with decent slots for small cams lead to some large hollow blocks one must climb over (don't put pro in!) to the first crux passing a yellow step. Climb this straight up, well above a BD Micronut. Follow the easier but very runout middle arete; one could easily cut right into Mac North and get pro, but the arete proper offers fun climbing on hollow edges. At the top, where Mac North steepens into its final fingers crux, cut left up a slabby ramp and then launch up the second crux section on airy climbing up the steep face on solid edges to an exciting mantle onto the arete. From here cut right into the final 10' of Mac North.

This route offers enjoyable climbing, with distinct lower and upper sections and the middle climbing close to Mac North. However, the pro is very sparse and both crux sequences are pretty much "don't fall" terrain and the middle section is very runout (50') if you don't cut into Mac North. It does make for a nice TR from the anchors on Mac North. There is some hollow rock typical of this side of the Tower, be careful!

Location 

The arete between Leaping Lizards and Mac North. Ends at anchors for P1 of Mac North.

Protection 

not much...set of stoppers and cams (no bigger than .5) with BD micros and HB offsets are handy, offset cams handy, long runners


Photos of Sleight of Hand Slideshow Add Photo
Trevor entering the upper crux on the FA.
Trevor entering the upper crux on the FA.

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