Sleeve of Wizard 5.11-
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| Type: | Trad, 105 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury 2/10/12 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Trevor Bowman on Dec 24, 2012 |
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In the lower squeeze.
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Description A nicely varied OW-squeeze with featured rock and more face holds than typical of the Creek. Very reminiscent of Zion. Start with a flared OW/squeeze with good hands in the back, pull out of the flare into a cups splitter, run it out up a wider chimney to a bolt, and finish with a tough squeeze section to a belay alcove. Great blue collar outing!
Location On the wall directly behind Ansaid Spire.
Protection 1 bolt, (3x)2,3 (2x)new 4,new 5,6, plenty of shoulder-length slings, chains
About to exit over cups bulge.
| Approaching the upper chimney.
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| Comments on Sleeve of Wizard |
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By Christina Freschl From: Berkeley, California Apr 12, 2013
| Good route, but super loose rock. Make sure your belayer has a helmet on. |
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