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Donnelly Canyon
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Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
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Sleeve of Wizard T 
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Sleeve of Wizard 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury 2/10/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 24, 2012

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In the lower squeeze.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A nicely varied OW-squeeze with featured rock and more face holds than typical of the Creek. Very reminiscent of Zion.

Start with a flared OW/squeeze with good hands in the back, pull out of the flare into a cups splitter, run it out up a wider chimney to a bolt, and finish with a tough squeeze section to a belay alcove. Great blue collar outing!


On the wall directly behind Ansaid Spire.


1 bolt, (3x)2,3 (2x)new 4,new 5,6, plenty of shoulder-length slings, chains

Photos of Sleeve of Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to exit over cups bulge.
About to exit over cups bulge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the upper chimney.
Approaching the upper chimney.

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By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Apr 12, 2013

Good route, but super loose rock. Make sure your belayer has a helmet on.

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