Sleeve of Wizard
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In the lower squeeze.
A nicely varied OW-squeeze with featured rock and more face holds than typical of the Creek. Very reminiscent of Zion.
Start with a flared OW/squeeze with good hands in the back, pull out of the flare into a cups splitter, run it out up a wider chimney to a bolt, and finish with a tough squeeze section to a belay alcove. Great blue collar outing!
On the wall directly behind Ansaid Spire.
1 bolt, (3x)2,3 (2x)new 4,new 5,6, plenty of shoulder-length slings, chains
About to exit over cups bulge.
Approaching the upper chimney.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Apr 12, 2013
Good route, but super loose rock. Make sure your belayer has a helmet on.