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BETA PHOTO: Sleepytime (original photo is Ivan Rezucha's shot ...
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Did this many years ago, after deciding that we didn't have enough small pieces to lead Morning Thunder. It's a bit of a thrutch, and I'd be very surprised if we were the FA - but since I've never seen it described elsewhere, I thought I'd add it. If nothing else, it makes an interesting alternative approach to the Allosaur amphitheatre.
Start just to the right of Morning Thunder (just left of the large block). Head straight up on decent pockets to an S-shaped crack. Continue up to the obviously, left-angling shelf and wallow up to the hole under Jam Con.
Standard Eldo rack.
From: Loveland, CO
Apr 5, 2015
The guidebook has this down as a 5.7 PG-13. It also shows a different route which runs up the crack and onto the ledge, then up and into a rotten band with crappy gear. Don't do it that way, follow the route in the beta pic, and you'll be much happier.
I took the route in the book and had a hell of a time. Took on a small cam in a bad placement (only one I could reach) and had it blow. Later took a fall on a tricam. I wish I'd seen the beta photo first.