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Sleepy Hollow 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ben Brooke and Gillian Herbert
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Aug 19, 2012
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Pulling through the crux

Sleepy Hollow 

Climb the initial right facing corner on juggy flakes and some jams. Pull out of the corner onto a ledge with a handcrack in a left facing corner. Layback (or jam if you're mike gray) the crack to a stance below another large right facing corner. Work up this corner to an overhang with a bombay chimney on its left side. (V1) Traverse to the right side of the overhang and find a jug. Get in whatever pro u can find (small cams/tricams) Move up and work back left on a horizontal incut rail (crux) towards the chimney and pull the overhang on more jugs to bolt anchors.

Brand new 2 bolt cold shut anchor at the top(8/20/12) A 60 meter rope will work to rap/lower.

Keep an eye out for hidden holds.

V1 - Finish directly up the bombay chimney to the anchors. Slightly more challenging, but less exposed, finish. 5.9


Start 

15' right and slightly uphill from Black Arch Arete on the "Patio" ledge. Locate a large corner system with a crack that varies from hands to chimney size at the top of the cliff. There is a small overhang about 8 feet off the deck.


Protection - This climb eats it up! 

A full rack. Doubles of .5 - 3 (BD C4), set of small cams, tri-cams, nuts. Wider gear not necessary.



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By Jay Harrison
Aug 22, 2012

Fantastic Route, a "must-do" line. Nice going, Ben!
Direct finish is 5.9, I would tag the original finish at 5.8+; it is a bit easier but way more exposed and committing. Radical finish to an awesome line.

By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Aug 25, 2012

Did the 5.9 direct variation. This climb is amazing and a lot of fun with great exposure. The direct finish is exciting and interesting to figure out the gear and the moves. Nice

By Gunkiemike
Sep 3, 2012

Another vote for 8+ for the right-hand finish. Impressive line with lots of thoughtful moves from the bottom to the very last.

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 19, 2013

Good route with a killer top out. Havent done the 5.9 variation but the 8 finish is a blast. Good work cr ane mtn crew