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Godfather Boulder
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All In All 
All In The Family 
An Offer He Couldn't Refuse 
Call in the Cleaners  
Corleone's Corner 
Cosa Nostra 
Ehhh Tony 
Godfather, The 
Good Times Are Killing Me, The 
Sleeping With The Fishes 
Snitch, The 
under arete's 

Sleeping With The Fishes 

Hueco: V6- Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: John Freaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: sweatpants on Jul 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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john working it.

Description 

Start on the horn from "All in the Family" go to seam or slopey crimp to the left, then up with left hand farther up and left to slopey crimp hold with a thumb catch, foot up near right hand and press up. go to small seam that runs along just under where rock turns vertical, match and up to the lip.


Location 

Godfather bloc


Protection 

pads



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By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 6, 2008

ill put up pictures when im not at work. Peter Bonamici with quick 2nd ascent.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 6, 2008

also, we were unsure of the rating because of how specific the movement is, if you're good at mantling than it wont be bad, but if you're not comfy with that kind of biz, than its prolly harder. Just let me know.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 25, 2008
rating: V6- 7A

Good variation John. Again (as mentioned on "An Offer..."), obviously folks are either comfortable or not on the mantle/press, but for me it was an onsight while All in the Family took maybe 8 tries and working out the feet, etc. So I personally would not call it V6 (if All in Family is V5), but hey, they are different and both cool probs so who cares. While reaching up to the seam, I was thinking "I'm lichen it". Haha I am hilarious. Just ask me.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 25, 2008

there's really nothing like rock climbing humor. haha. anyone know better ways to get the really tough lichen off? besides stick brush which is what i use.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 25, 2008
rating: V6- 7A

Napalm. Dries out the rock too, but then it's too hot to climb for a day or two. Heh.

Last summer I thought Get outta Dodge was V5, but after getting on it again yesterday, it seemed pretty easy. Pretty sure I am not that much stronger this year compared with last year, though confidence is up some. So I see where you came from on all these. At the gym I used to climb at most of the climbs finished by topping out in a manner similar to the Fishes, so maybe it's just a very familiar move for me, thus it feels pretty easy. All in the Family is much more strenuous, just like your Internet Predator that I am not as good at (and continue to struggle with!)...

Anyway, healthy discussions. And congrats on the new sends and problems, great additions to the park.

Just realized this is partially a response to your comments under An Offer He Couldn't Refuse also. Sorry for the cornfusion.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 25, 2008

yeah i think these kinds of discussions are good for sure. i think its needed to really get baselines for the park. cause previously i think ratings have been pretty all over the place. sounds like you're still close on "I.P." good luck man. send that thing. i was actually going to go wed but couldnt get myself to do the drive. maybe next week. We all just have to keep uncovering new shit and deciding on grades of old shit. lol.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 25, 2008

Yo Sweatpants,

A Grigri and a nice static line, along with various amounts of engineering make getting those hard to reach spots a lot easier. A little more work, of course, but way better than a stickbrush. If you guys only knew... JJ

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 26, 2008

word, i heard people use vinegar? If so, how long does that take to dry?