|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|FA: ||D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989|
|Page Views: ||36|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Sep 13, 2004|
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This route is just right of 'Haul Off and Heave.' It is distinguished by a tree growing out of it perhaps 4m up, and a hanging flake creating a roof with an OW crack to the left at perhaps 10m up.
Climb up to the tree and sling it (easy) and continue up into a crack to below a hanging flake. Go up behind the flake and clip a stopper (fixed) and some other potential gear, then get back out of the cave. Use long slings. Place another piece of small gear - a tiny red Camalot Jr. fits perfectly, ballnuts may work OK, too, I imagine. Then use *very* surprising, inobvious crux holds to pull up and over the bulge and into the crack above - climb this to a sloping shelf. At the shelf, clip a fixed pin and place as much brass as you feel safe with, then negotiate the final corner indirectly (it might be a short ledge fall if you goof and your nuts pull).
Belay just above the route.
Descend as for other areas route- down to the East to the 4th class downclimb, or further to the rap (red & green webbing) above Move Like A Stud.
One, 2' sling for the tree in the crack at the bottom, then a standard rack + a set of small brass or steel nuts. THe 5" piece Rossiter suggests is more likely to hinder movement than make you feel safe. The route protects well enough without it.
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