Sleeping Beauty 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Bertrand Gramont and Don Goodhew 10/87 |
| Season: | Spring and Fall |
| Submitted By: | Jason Halladay on Feb 15, 2006 |
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Linda W. nearing the top
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Sleeping Beauty is the steep, pocketed route just left of the obvious black streak in the Sleeping Beauty area. Scramble up the right side of the low angle ramp on unprotected but easy terrain to the first bolt. Clip it and then head up and slightly right up the overhanging face on pockets. Choosing the right pockets out of the multitude of chalked holds will be the deciding factor on whether you get the red point or not.
Protection 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor/rap
Nate getting the onsight of Sleeping Beauty. Augus...
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Amy on "Sleeping Beauty."
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Linda clipping the chains while the Tower stands w...
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| Comments on Sleeping Beauty |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 16, 2006
rating: 5.11c
| Great climbing up a smooth bulge festooned with pockets...some are good and some are not! Choosing the right pockets or having the endurance to hang out and search is the key to this climb. |
By jbak
Mar 23, 2006
| It's a sweet little climb, but just too short for 3 stars. |
By WSnyder
Mar 27, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c
| Some of my friends and I have a saying for climbing at The Tower "Skip the crap, go big!". Meaning, make bigger moves from good holds to the next good holds and skipping the not so good. This certainly applies to this route and is a good rule of thumb to keep in mind for the whole area. |
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