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DescriptionSleeping beauty is a popular day hike from a secluded trail head known as Dacy's Clearing. Several cliff bands lay rest on the mountain, the lowest of which have the concentration of established routes. This cliff does a great job of providing spectacular views of the lake from the cliff top, and there's more than enough great routes to keep you busy for the day. Rock quality varies but routes have been put in on the better rock and the quality is fantastic. Getting ThereFrom NY 149 hang a left onto buttermilk falls road (big black rooster sign on the turn), follow this road past the yield merge onto shelving rock road and it will soon turn to dirt. Once on the dirt road take it to the end where it meets with a large parking lot (dont take the turn off w/ gate just before the lot). If the gate leaving the parking lot to dacy's clearing is open take that to the opening(4wd), park and hike in by the trail head sign. At 20mins hiking in you will hit a trail junction, continue on the trail for another 5 mins and there will be a herd path leading up to the far eastern side of the cliff, i would suggest going to the most popular wall ( take the trail all the way to the west end of the cliff under the obvious Tang Corner) and setup base camp. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sleeping Beauty Mountain:
Fat Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Sundowner 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Frack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Frick 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Tang Corner 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Flight of the Falcon 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Sleeping Beauty Mountain
Tang Corner 5.8 NY : Adirondacks : ... : Sleeping Beauty Mountain
Climb the obvious tang colored inside corner to the roof and traverse up and left onto the face, Once on the face (clip pin) make the difficult face move into the crack (crux) and follow the crack to the bolted anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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