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Cyclops Area
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Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 3,740
Submitted By: Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Lana Nysse on the finishing moves. Spring, '07.

Description 

Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing.

  • RCM&W #9, p. 117

Location 

Approximately 9 feet right of the Cyclops.

Protection 

7 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top rope. Bring a long sling and extend the 4th bolt to avoid rope drag.a crash pad is not a bad idea here.


Photos of Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag Slideshow Add Photo
Full view of the climb.  Photo by Tim Schumann.
BETA PHOTO: Full view of the climb. Photo by Tim Schumann.
John leading
John leading
Sam at the start of Sleep Bat
Sam at the start of Sleep Bat
One of my favorite climbs at Red Wing
One of my favorite climbs at Red Wing
Dan Wilkinson on the fun, juggy holds.
Dan Wilkinson on the fun, juggy holds.
Dan pulling through the overhang near the top.
Dan pulling through the overhang near the top.
Clay Nadeau, taking a breather
Clay Nadeau, taking a breather
Photo from July 2004 before the rock fall. Photo b...
Photo from July 2004 before the rock fall. Photo b...
Mar 13, 2011
Mar 13, 2011
jimmy hann on lead
jimmy hann on lead

Comments on Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2014
By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is the classic redwing 5.10. A little bit of everything: crimpy start, juggy overhang, and balancey finish.
By Glenn Burns
From: St. Paul, MN
May 17, 2007

the crux is getting to the first bolt. the footholds are like linoleum and the start holds are, well, polished.

fun route after the exciting start.

crash pad is not a bad idea here.

-=g=-
By josh wabaunsee
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This is my least favorite of the 10's at redwing. not only is the start so polished as to be a few lettergrades harder, the bolt locations out right leave something to be desired, and without beta it becomes much harder quickly at the top.
By Jordan Seering
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think the start is the crux which is a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Fun climb!
By ferrells
Nov 19, 2007

The beginning of this route suffered some rockfall this season, and climbs differently as a result. Perhaps a grade harder? With the different sequence, the second bolt is awkwardly positioned.
A couple of negative comments here, but I don't want to dissuade others from climbing it. With prudence, it isn't any more dangerous, and the movement remains as refreshing as a cool glass of iced tea on a hot summer day.
By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Sep 1, 2008

Best warm up route! Usually as crowded as Jump Start
By Andrew Krosbakken
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Just climbed this route and the start is great. It is not to polished and it is very crimpy, in a good way. I really didn't notice that the second bolt was placed awkardly because of the rockfall, so I don't know. Anyways this is a great route and comes highly recommended.

The start and finish are the cruxes in my opinion, and no I don't believe it is a number grade harder because of the rock fall.

And this climb is very well bolted for anyone who is wondering. Have fun.
By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 2, 2010

My favorite of the 10s. Kept saying "Damn this is fun!" as i climbed. Great movements throughout.
By Alex Chase
Oct 23, 2011

Large Piece of Africa has Pulled Off! The under cling that made up the Ivory Coast has pulled away. Scary to see. This is a major hold just right of the second bolt. Who knows if the rest of the flack know as Africa will start to come off Starting with the "West" side of the Africa. It sounds more hallow than I remember.

I would belay from the left side as the piece went to the right and it would seem the rest of the pieces would as well.

It was a majorly used piece but I believe still doable at the current grad level.

Thanks and climb safe.
By Adam J. Clark
From: Monroe, WA
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed the route on Monday, and still find the start to be very difficult for the grade, even more so than the top slab section. The Africa flake seemed very unstable, wiggling just a little bit when stepped on.
By Dakota S.
From: Minneapolis,MN
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Just did this route. Pretty fun, getting the flash was incredibly satisfying! The start in my opinion isn't the hardest. Very boulder-esque but actually doable if you look through the route. The overhanging section after the ledge was definitely the crux. I would honestly say due to the start and finishes it is a solid 5.10b
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 17, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

the start is bouldery indeed and not 10a... might have been at some point and it's ok to mark this as 10a to keep with the history of the route but anywhere else or if the start of the climb was the finish of the climb it'd easily be 10b/c if not harder.