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The crux comes right off the ground at a finger crack through an overhang. From here, easier climbing follows the crack up the face. There is another short difficulty at the top just left of the anchors on Henry Spies the Line.
This route climbs the first crack located to the left of Henry Spies the Line and just to the right of a chimney.
Standard rack. It's possible to clip a bolt on Henry Spies the Line halfway up, but this is not necessary as the crack protects well. Lower off the anchor on Henry's.
Garrett Gillest working "Sleeper" at age 6.
|By Ben Cassedy|
From: Denver, CO
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Between this one and Redrum, I thought this one was the better line, at least a little more aesthetic (face/crack vs. chimney on Redrum). It's hard to call either one an independent line, more like variations of one line. The short tricky part up top was lots of fun. Takes great gear.