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 ADVANCED
Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Quartz System 
Counting Sheep 
Sleep Deprivation 
Sominex 
Tooth and Nail 

Sleep Deprivation 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas & Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jan 2, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side
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  • Description 

    Fifteen feet right of the Boulder Quartz System is a short 20-foot hand crack leading to a large ledge with a clean fifty-foot slab above. This is the start of Sominex and Sleep Deprivation.

    P1. Climb the crack using small-to-medium gear gaining the ledge after twenty-five feet. Belay at a 2-bolt anchor. You can avoid this pitch by scrambling in from the right (see photo).

    P2. Climb past two bolts on the right to reach a horizontal crack (crux). Continue up past 4 bolts at the right side of the face and move back left to the anchor of Sominex. Great slab climbing on excellent rock.


    Protection 

    Small-to-medium gear if you do the crack on the first pitch; six bolts for the second pitch. 2-bolt anchors at the end of both pitches.



    Comments on Sleep Deprivation Add Comment
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    By TBD
    Jul 21, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    It made the most sense to us to start from the huge ledge below the slab. While the holds are all there, the climbing is tricky to sort out. Very fun climbing on a short but great slab.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 23, 2003

    I'd like to second that. Doing these routes in one long lead is asking for heinous rope drag. It's probably better to go up easy looking rock to the right (fixed sling?) and set up a belay. I did the 11 to the left in one pitch and it was pretty grim. Not a bad route but it would be better without the starting section to the ledge.

    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 17, 2003

    Is the bolt line on Sleep Deprivation supposed to be completely separate from the bolt line on Sominex? My partner clipped the first two bolts of Sominex, then branched right to Sleep Deprivation, clipping 6 bolts in all.

    By Bruce Pech
    Oct 23, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    There's a new(?) two bolt anchor at the foot of the Sominex/Sleep Deprivation Slab. It can be reached by a short trad pitch beginning on the Rama-to-Sleep Deprivation traverse ledge or, as Peter suggests, by third-classing up and left from the far right side of the traverse ledge. The two bolts to the right of the anchor are the start (and crux) of Sleep Deprivation, not Sominex. Sominex starts in the left-facing, roof-capped corner left of the anchor. There's a good I 1/2 Friend placement in the horizontal crack that extends right from the edge of the roof . After placing the piece, step up and right to clip the first bolt on Sominex.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 30, 2005

    Young Doug-If you start by clipping the 1st bolt on S.D., and head straight up past a patina-like knob, it is better than messing with the corner at the start of the pitch. used a tcu in the horizontal crack to protect the awkward moves onto the face.

    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 22, 2007
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    Traversing back to the left at the top made no sense to me. A separate anchor at the top on the right, with possibly one more bolt (but probably not needed) seems a more fitting ending.