Slave to the Rhythm 5.13b
| 4,044 page views Good page? (2 likes)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Dan Michaels |
| Submitted By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2008 |
| |
Taylor Roy on Slave to the Rhythm.
Add Photo Printer View
Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
|
Description Unusually steep for the Flatirons, and peppered with pebbles and cobble stones, Slave to the Rhythm (STTR) is Boulder's little slice of Maple Canyon. Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging. Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.
Location STTR is located on the upper portion of the East Ironing Board. It is the middle of the three sport routes and is equipped with ring bolts. Look for three small huecos at the beginning of the route.
Protection This route sports old ring bolts, and a two bolt anchor with chains. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt. You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.
Tony Yao on Slave to the Rhythm.
| Dan on Slave.
| |
| Comments on Slave to the Rhythm |
|
By doug rouse Jan 9, 2009
| I remember hearing a funny story about this line, and while Dan was working the route. I understand he named all of the features on the route (cobbles, huecos etc.), and would refer to them by their names as he passed. Perhaps someone who knows him could ask him to detail a few or all of these! |
By Brian Hansen From: West of Boulder, CO Jan 9, 2009
| I recall that he named one particularly large and white cobble "Skinhead." |
By Steve Levin From: Boulder, CO Jan 10, 2009
| One of the holds is called the "Peanut." |
By Hank the Tank From: Golden, CO Jan 11, 2009
| Actually, most every hold on the climb has a name (it's that weird). TOTALLY worth hike. |
By Ted Lanzano From: Boulder, CO Aug 13, 2009 rating: 5.13b
| The big rest is called the Bath Tub. |
By Tom Hanson Aug 14, 2009
| I recall one hold was named The Skinhead. |
By Dan Levison From: Boulder Sep 25, 2009 rating: 5.13b/c
| Brilliant sport route. A Dan Michaels' mega-classic. Solid at the grade. |
By Jim Redo Oct 14, 2011
| Whose draws are on Slave to the Rhythm? They look mank. |
By Aaron Ramras Nov 25, 2011
| Found the draws lying in a pile at the base of the climb today. They were in bad condition. I gave the route a couple goes and hung my own draws (hard!). We carried out the draws we found, so let me know if they belong to you, although you may not want them back.... My draws should be up for the next couple weeks until I send, so now's a good time to go work it! Also a knee pad would be quite nice for the upper crux! Outstanding pitch! |
By gatch From: denver, co Dec 25, 2011
| Does anyone know if this wall gets good sun during the winter? Need something other than Clear Creek to stay psyched right now. Thanks! |
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Dec 26, 2011
| You have about a month to get on the route as the entire formation will be closed on Feb. 1. |
By gatch From: denver, co Dec 27, 2011
| Thanks, Peter! |
By gregory locker Apr 8, 2012
| Is the closure permanent or just seasonal?? if just seasonal when will it reopen. |
By Pinklebear Apr 8, 2012
| It's a seasonal closure. They usually run through the beginning of August but sometimes lift earlier depending on the birds. OSMP announces it on their site and usually in the Daily Camera when the seasonal closures lift. |
By Colin Lantz From: Nederland, CO Jul 30, 2012 rating: 5.13b
| Awesome route with fun moves. The "skinhead" is right before the bathtub big rest. Other pebble names I remember: "mono pebble", "peanut cluster", "pistol grip", "soap bar", "quahog", "clam". I used to do this route often while working on Honemaster Lambada. |
By Curt MacNeill From: Boulder, CO Aug 22, 2012
| Amazing route! Awesome hike that will get you fit, a surreal setting that is very peaceful, and fun lock-offy type power climbing on slightly overhanging terrain. I'm impressed. This would be a great route to get retrobolted with new hardware. The old ring bolts are pretty shitty and there are a few bolts, if moved slightly, would be way better for the flow and clipping. Enjoy!! |
By Curt MacNeill From: Boulder, CO Oct 14, 2012
| Stefan Griebel and I will be rebolting this route replacing the old ring style bolts with brand new bomber hardwear. I currently have some gear up there (as of Oct. 14th). Please be respectful and leave the stuff up there. Hopefully in the next week or so it will get done, since we lugged tons of shit up there yesterday, got both of us to the top of the climb to simul-rap the route only to realize we didn't have a hammer. Got a good laugh out of that for sure. Thanks to Jason Haas for supplying the hardware.... |
By Chris Beh Oct 15, 2012
| Excellent Curt and Stephen are replacing the hardware on Slave. It really is one of the coolest routes in the Flatirons. I worked it a few times when I was belaying Colin on his Honemaster project. He even had a small piece of closed cell foam to pad out the "bathtub" rest before the top crux on Slave. I never could really do the top crux...no one thought about knee bars back then. FWIW, I was chatting with Dan Michael about Slave last week, and he mentioned he never used the final rest off to the side and climbed straight through the top crux after the middle section. BURLY!!!!! |
By Curt MacNeill From: Boulder, CO Oct 26, 2012
| I just bolted this route with Stefan Griebel. All shiny new hardware with some bomber chain anchors. She's looking good! I chose to relocate a few bolts which makes the rope line way straighter and some of the clips much easier. Couldn't get the old ass ring bolts out. Even tried using a hydraulic pump which ended up just snapping the steel biners we had attached to the rings. Ended up using a dremel tool and sawing off the old hardware and patching it. Thanks to Stefan Griebel for all the hard work (he spent 9 hours rebolting, sawing, and patching), the tools and the quick run back to the car midday to change out batteries for the drill. Stefan, you are a beast! Hope everyone enjoys. This line is a beauty! |
By Jason Haas From: Broomfield, CO Oct 27, 2012
| Just to add about the rebolt effort - hardware was provided by the ASCA. Please support them if you don't already. |
|