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East Ironing Board
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Slave to the Rhythm 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dan Michaels
Page Views: 5,178
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Taylor Roy on Slave to the Rhythm.

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Unusually steep for the Flatirons, and peppered with pebbles and cobble stones, Slave to the Rhythm (STTR) is Boulder's little slice of Maple Canyon.

    Climb an easy groove and traverse in from the left making some hard moves to gain an obvious set of huecos about 15 feet off the ground. From the huecos, make a long reach to a pebble (crux#1), and continue moving right using small pockets and cobbles until you reach the first good rest. After recovering, make a couple of more right trending moves and then crank through a very pumpy section of pebbles and cobbles (crux#2) that ends at a horizontal break. When you feel rested, kneebar past a very steep, right facing lieback feature (crux #3) to the chains. If you are pumped, clipping the anchors could be challenging.

    Besides the huge hike and a little traversing, there is nothing bad to say about this route. The moves are fun, the rock is great, the holds are easy on the skin, and there is no glue or manufacturing. Too bad there aren't 50 more route just like it! Wait, there probably are, they just can't be bolted.

    Location 

    STTR is located on the upper portion of the East Ironing Board. It is the middle of the three sport routes and is equipped with ring bolts. Look for three small huecos at the beginning of the route.

    Protection 

    This route sports old ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with chains. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt. You may also want a kneepad for the upper crux.

    Beware: per Dr. Chris Lee, the 4th bolt (itself) spins and should NOT be considered safe!


    Photos of Slave to the Rhythm Slideshow Add Photo
    Tony Yao on Slave to the Rhythm.
    Tony Yao on Slave to the Rhythm.
    Dan on Slave.
    Dan on Slave.

    Comments on Slave to the Rhythm Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 27, 2012
    By Pinklebear
    Aug 10, 2014

    CONDITION REPORT 
    Bolts 3 and 4 are spinning (just the hangers), and 1 and 2 are torqued around a bit -- I'm sure all due to the traversing nature of the climb and sideways falls. If you get on it, bring a 9/16" socket or wrench to tighten down and re-orient the hangers.

    Also, we pulled off the manky fixed draws but left two of the "still-OK" ones on bolts 2 and 3. If you want your draws back, PM me.
    By Dr. Chris Lee
    Oct 29, 2014

    CONDITION REPORT 
    Status update on bolt #4 (counting the 1st bolt on Sinatra), the bolt where you stop traversing right and start going up to the skinhead:
    The bolt itself, not just the hanger, is currently spinning, meaning that I brought a wrench up and turned it many times, and it would not catch at all.
    I'm not an expert on bolts, but having talked with one about it, I think it should not be considered safe at this point, at least until someone who's more of an expert than I checks it out.
    Also, the hanger also spins a lot, to the point where the last fall that I took the draw sling was fully loading the gate itself, not the main part of the biner. I'm not sure why it even held, unless the fall initially loaded the main part of the biner and then a bounce reset the sling on to the gate.

    So... be very cautious. We are looking into fixing that bolt (not me...), and I will post again when I know more.
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Jan 9, 2009

    I remember hearing a funny story about this line, and while Dan was working the route. I understand he named all of the features on the route (cobbles, huecos etc.), and would refer to them by their names as he passed. Perhaps someone who knows him could ask him to detail a few or all of these!
    By Brian Hansen
    From: West of Boulder, CO
    Jan 9, 2009

    I recall that he named one particularly large and white cobble "Skinhead."
    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 10, 2009

    One of the holds is called the "Peanut."
    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Jan 11, 2009

    Actually, most every hold on the climb has a name (it's that weird). TOTALLY worth hike.
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 13, 2009
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    The big rest is called the Bath Tub.
    By Tom Hanson
    Aug 14, 2009

    I recall one hold was named The Skinhead.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 25, 2009
    rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

    Brilliant sport route. A Dan Michaels' mega-classic. Solid at the grade.
    By Jim Redo
    Oct 14, 2011

    Whose draws are on Slave to the Rhythm? They look mank.
    By Aaron Ramras
    Nov 25, 2011

    Found the draws lying in a pile at the base of the climb today. They were in bad condition. I gave the route a couple goes and hung my own draws (hard!). We carried out the draws we found, so let me know if they belong to you, although you may not want them back.... My draws should be up for the next couple weeks until I send, so now's a good time to go work it! Also a knee pad would be quite nice for the upper crux! Outstanding pitch!
    By j gatchalian
    From: denver, co
    Dec 25, 2011

    Does anyone know if this wall gets good sun during the winter? Need something other than Clear Creek to stay psyched right now. Thanks!
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Dec 26, 2011

    You have about a month to get on the route as the entire formation will be closed on Feb. 1.
    By j gatchalian
    From: denver, co
    Dec 27, 2011

    Thanks, Peter!
    By gregory locker
    Apr 8, 2012

    Is the closure permanent or just seasonal?? if just seasonal when will it reopen.
    By Pinklebear
    Apr 8, 2012

    It's a seasonal closure. They usually run through the beginning of August but sometimes lift earlier depending on the birds. OSMP announces it on their site and usually in the Daily Camera when the seasonal closures lift.
    By Colin Lantz
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 30, 2012
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Awesome route with fun moves. The "skinhead" is right before the bathtub big rest. Other pebble names I remember: "mono pebble", "peanut cluster", "pistol grip", "soap bar", "quahog", "clam". I used to do this route often while working on Honemaster Lambada.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 14, 2012
    rating: 5.15d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c

    Stefan Griebel and I will be rebolting this route replacing the old ring style bolts with brand new bomber hardwear. I currently have some gear up there (as of Oct. 14th). Please be respectful and leave the stuff up there. Hopefully in the next week or so it will get done, since we lugged tons of shit up there yesterday, got both of us to the top of the climb to simul-rap the route only to realize we didn't have a hammer. Got a good laugh out of that for sure. Thanks to Jason Haas for supplying the hardware....
    By Chris Beh
    Oct 15, 2012

    Excellent Curt and Stephen are replacing the hardware on Slave. It really is one of the coolest routes in the Flatirons. I worked it a few times when I was belaying Colin on his Honemaster project. He even had a small piece of closed cell foam to pad out the "bathtub" rest before the top crux on Slave. I never could really do the top crux...no one thought about knee bars back then. FWIW, I was chatting with Dan Michael about Slave last week, and he mentioned he never used the final rest off to the side and climbed straight through the top crux after the middle section. BURLY!!!!!
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 26, 2012
    rating: 5.15d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c

    I just bolted this route with Stefan Griebel. All shiny new hardware with some bomber chain anchors. She's looking good! I chose to relocate a few bolts which makes the rope line way straighter and some of the clips much easier. Couldn't get the old ass ring bolts out. Even tried using a hydraulic pump which ended up just snapping the steel biners we had attached to the rings. Ended up using a dremel tool and sawing off the old hardware and patching it. Thanks to Stefan Griebel for all the hard work (he spent 9 hours rebolting, sawing, and patching), the tools and the quick run back to the car midday to change out batteries for the drill. Stefan, you are a beast! Hope everyone enjoys. This line is a beauty!
    By Jason Haas
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Oct 27, 2012

    Just to add about the rebolt effort - hardware was provided by the ASCA. Please support them if you don't already.