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 ADVANCED
Sweet Pain Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Cute Pain T 
Gambler, The S 
Glitter Gulch S 
Lee Press On S 
Pain in the Neck S 
Sister of Pain S 
Slave to the Grind S 
Sour Pain S 
Sweet Pain S 

Slave to the Grind 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Guys from Colorado, 1991
Page Views: 2,464
Submitted By: M.Morley on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Description 

Immediately right of Glitter Gulch, Slave to the Grind starts with a long reach to a rail. Steep face climbing with a tricky crux around the third bolt. Climbing eases towards the top. Although given an 11b rating in the Brock guidebook, I felt it to be closer to 11c.

Protection 

7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.


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By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Like a harder version of Glitter Gulch. Fairly sustained, the climb just gets harder as you go up and the wall tips back. The holds are all fairly good if you can get the correct body position; like Glitter Gulch the abundance of large feet will save you from the pump!
By Wally
From: Denver
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Great line!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Done this one dozens of times over the years with beta that always felt .11c, watched my friend do it today, and after trying his beta, it felt .11a-ish at the lower crux. The upper wall keeps the grade at about .11b.

This route and Sister of Pain are easily the best routes on the wall.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 25, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

On jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks to this anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering.
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014

Tricky Crux down low leads to a pump fest. Definitely well described as a harder, more legit 5.11 version of Glitter Gulch and almost equally as fun.