|Original: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||(Slashed [full route]) Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart (2011) (Slash [upper flake]) Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart (1988)|
|Page Views: ||340|
|Submitted By: ||andyf on May 18, 2012|
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Slashed: Jim finishing the opening crack.
Slashed is the full length direct version of Slash, which is described in another posting as a variation finish to Wild Child (mountainproject.com/v/wild-chi...
. Start up an easy/fun hand crack to a small ledge. Mantle and move left to the arete to climb an increasingly tricky three-bolt face/arete (crux), teetering over to the right to finish on the steep upper flake system of Slash.
An inobvious route, but fun and worth adding to a tour of Columns 5.10s.
Discontinuous crack system and pillar face immediately left of Wild Child corner/roof
Three bolts; a few medium cams for start; a small cam or two for the start of the upper flake and a larger cam or two for above. A #3 Camalot will make most people comfortable on upper flake, but a #2 Camalot is big enough to get you through if you put it in the right place.
Bolted anchor on the ledge above route. May still need chains.
Slashed: On the crux arete.