|394 page views|
A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.
Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.
Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking.
After the first 30 feet, however, the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack.
(Note: The first 2 bolts have been removed, so leading it is not the safest idea. It is very easy to TR it off the slung spike below "Even Steven".)
The blunt arete directly below "Even Steven".
First 2 bolts are missing, upper two are still intact.
Dec 31, 2008
FA Jim Yoder, Matt Kerns.
The 2nd pitch is a very good climb in its own right and ascends the arete to the left of Even Steven and Toxic Shock. Low angle, balancey climbing past bolts leads to strange encounters with ledges and bulges higher up. Descend from the slung tree atop the corner (hard .11b). This can be accessed in one pitch from the ground quite easily by climbing the crack start to Even Steven, which requires some gear (thin finger-size to #2 Camalots).