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Notch, cave side (SW)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind the Eight Ball 
China Syndrome 
Even Steven 
Geek Corners 
Roadside Floral Curtain 
Route of All Evil or F.M.B., The 
Sucker Punch 
Toxic Shock 
View from the Bridge, The 
Wall to Wall Fanny 
Working Man 
Yellow Cake 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 15, 2008
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A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.

Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.

Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking.

After the first 30 feet, however, the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack.

(Note: The first 2 bolts have been removed, so leading it is not the safest idea. It is very easy to TR it off the slung spike below "Even Steven".)


The blunt arete directly below "Even Steven".


First 2 bolts are missing, upper two are still intact.

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By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

FA Jim Yoder, Matt Kerns.

The 2nd pitch is a very good climb in its own right and ascends the arete to the left of Even Steven and Toxic Shock. Low angle, balancey climbing past bolts leads to strange encounters with ledges and bulges higher up. Descend from the slung tree atop the corner (hard .11b). This can be accessed in one pitch from the ground quite easily by climbing the crack start to Even Steven, which requires some gear (thin finger-size to #2 Camalots).