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Rainy Day Rock
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Slapaho 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve Damboise
Page Views: 826
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Does he Slapaho?

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just left of Rainy Day 12a, is a super steep corner. Hard bouldering to get into it and a few thin moves to get the top jug. A good tick for boulderers who want to put on a rope.

Protection 

5 bolts.


Photos of Slapaho Slideshow Add Photo
Luke about to get slap happy, y'all!!
Luke about to get slap happy, y'all!!

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 8, 2001

Does anyone out there know if anyone has sent the .13 next to Rainy Day 12A? If so, what's the route rated? Any beta would also be great.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2004

I was just on this route today. Thought it was 12a or something, but boy, straight off the ground I got a surprise... couldn't make any of the clips on it, due to pump factor and it just takes insane strength, but equipped with a bouldering pad, making the first clip at the first good jug makes the route significantly easier... if you have the time to get over... bring the pads and bring the biceps. The crux sequence was significantly easier for me (I have a 6'4" span and am only 6'1", I know freakish) hence the downgrade but I'm sure it would be much harder for shorter, stouter climbers. So, defintely high-dependent, I got through the crux in a half-hour of bouldering it and plan to go send tomorrow... I've never done anything harder than Ten Digit before (consensus 12c) and so it seems improbable for the grade... but give it go... especially during the summers laced with afternoon thunderstorms... escape the heat the rain and get a pump.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 28, 2004

Peter Beal knows better than I. I tried it bouldering/soloing it with a friend today and came up short... definitely legit... sorry about the prior remarks.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 28, 2004

I'd be impressed (for what it's worth) by a ground-up bouldered-out ascent of this route. It seems that just as the crux hits, the landing slopes away drastically, and then comes the last funky crux. And good luck with the down climb (maybe off to the left?).
By JP3
From: Missoula, MT
Mar 28, 2007

This is a great bolted aid route, haha there are so many bolts. It sure lived up to the grade by saying this I mean that I couldn't figure out the starting moves, although I figured out the rest of the route, beta please? I would appreciate it!
By Luke Childers
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Great line I thought. The over hang/roof moves were really desperate and action packed. Found a nice side pull on the left side of the wall once you are starting to pull into the upper right facing corner that saved my bacon for the moves leading up to the final grope for the jug corner just before the anchors!!

This line was so much better than one star to me, but I love that style of climbing. It took me a few burns, but it was never a cake walk. Once I got the sequence figured out, the line really came down to just two crux moves. I thought the line was closer to 13c than 13b, so I gave the line 13b/c. Great little overhang, man!!!
By Luke Childers
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Here's a video of my man Jay Sam crushing this rig: