Slanting Cracks Wall Rock Climbing
Making the crux moves right to gain the finishing ...
One of the longest contiguous cliffs on Crane and one of the first to draw attention of climbers willing to tackle the approach. The Slanting Cracks Wall is 320' at its tallest, begins as a steep slab which undulates between 60 and 80 degrees before rounding over to easy slab near the top.
Named for the obvious crack lines that run from lower left to upper right, the wall is very wide at the top, but narrows toward the bottom, somewhat like a funnel. In fact, climbers should be aware that anything dropped from anywhere up on the main face tends to end up at the bottom of this funnel, near the start of Providence. This is particularly important during winter ascents, when ice and spindrift frequently come down.
The wall diminishes in height quickly to the right of Providence, but continues several hundred yards before tapering off completely.
Note that this wall is currently in pretty rough shape. Since the development of the BAW, it has seen little traffic outside of winter ascents.
Either rappelling from above or walking. Rappelling is recommended.
Walking: take the East Path to the Isobuttress, walk downhill between the Underworld cliff and the landslide area below the Pinnacle Overlook block. Keep the Underworld Cliff on your left as you descend and turn northward, then work carefully along to the gigantic left-facing corner where Providence begins.
To rappel, walk the East Path past the BAW for 200 yards. Look for an oak tree with a rappel anchor about 20 yards off the trail. A 100' rappel leads to the Providence belay ledge. Walk skier's right to a pine tree and rappel down the outer face (NOT into the Providence corner) to a large white pine and rappel again, this time in whichever direction gets you to the climb you are looking for.
Climbing Season For the Crane Mountain area.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Slanting Cracks Wall
Say Hello to My Little Friend 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b NY
: ... : 1 - Underworld
This is a high-quality route with great rock and one seriously hard move.Make a short move to gain the horizontal crack, then up jugs to a steep section where the holds disappear. Dyno for a hidden crimp, then move left to better jugs. Continue straight up the beautiful orange rock with a right-facing edge to a small overlap. Over this using a nipple-hold, then up an easy slab to a ledge with a fixed anchor.If you pull on a quickdraw, the route is 5.11a....[more] Browse More Classics in NY