Begin with some moderate climbing and work your way into a strenuous undercling, at the third bolt, to prepare for the seam transfer. I personally find this crux move really difficult. Hard to trust the poor footholds. Then lieback and smear up past the hollow flake to a good rest. Navigate your way up a slightly tricky finish with one more really cool move to reach the anchors. A Piana classic that deserves more attention.
On the north face of The Shrub, follows the left seam just left of the steepest and streaked part of the wall.
7 bolts, 2 cold shut anchors.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great route but hard for the 12- grade I thought (especially if you have a short wingspan I bet!)...Easy start to a powerful clip and then a V5 sequence, a good rest and cool 11- climbing to finish.