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Wall of Justice
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Slammer 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Nelson and Dana Knight, 1994.
Page Views: 8,440
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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Slammer - 5.12b.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the ultra classic of the Wall of Justice. A weird 12a sequence gains the good jugs for the huge roof. Then gain the lip with a tough reachy move on a small hold. Of course the crux of this one is at the end, a crazy mantle move with literally no good hand holds. I highly recommend this route.

Protection 

9 bolts / permanent biners anchor.


Photos of Slammer Slideshow Add Photo
Andrew "Stonewall" Lee campusing to the big jugs on Slammer.
Andrew "Stonewall" Lee campusing to the big jugs o...
Sam on Slammer.
BETA PHOTO: Sam on Slammer.
Chip Nakagawa styin' it out with a bat hang rest on Slammer. <br />Photo: Adam Bove.
Chip Nakagawa styin' it out with a bat hang rest o...
Dan Scales ridin' the send train. <br />Photo: Adam Bove.
Dan Scales ridin' the send train.
Photo: Adam Bove...
Moving to the good jugs.
Moving to the good jugs.
Juggy....
Juggy....
This may not be the best beta, but for shorties like me it makes the move to the jugs totally static.
This may not be the best beta, but for shorties li...
Sam on Slammer.
BETA PHOTO: Sam on Slammer.
Slowly inching through the first crux over the lip.
Slowly inching through the first crux over the lip...

Comments on Slammer Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 13, 2014
By Mike Davis
Jul 26, 2001

As you pull the lip jug and get the first peek over the lip you'll see a bolt with no hanger and another chopped bolt above that. It appears as though someone moved the bolt line to the right about 3 feet, which makes the line more direct and reduces the drag a little.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 28, 2002

Great route. Big jug pulling and hooking with some funky lip topping move thrown in to keep you honest. When in doubt, hike the feet!
By Rob Mullen
Jul 18, 2003

Nice picture of Chris Cavallaro below, perfect heel hooking technique. Chris, did you get the redpoint?
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 19, 2004

There were two quickdraws from someone projecting this route that on my last visit were gone.... I saw two guys leaving (two older foreigners--I could tell by their accents) and went to set up under the route and saw only a bail biner and at the base a big messy chalk spill that was very recent. I sent the route and took the bail biner...if the draws were indeed stolen and if the bail biner is illegit, I would be more than glad to give it back.... Let me know by posting below.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 2, 2005

Got on [Slammer] for the first time, [awesome], but rock (good square foot) ripped out pulling over the first roof. Does not [affect] hands much but may affect high feet/heel hook making the first crux move. [Curious,] does this change [route] at all for anybody who has climbed this before?
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Haven't been on it recently so I couldn't say, but I know that the heel hook to pull the first roof (after the one pictured below) was pretty crucial, especially keeping my leg closer to me rather than farther.
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2006

Excellent route. I liked the limbo action to gain the roof and then the awesome mantle to get to the anchors. As they say in the guidebook, "it's the greatest jug haul in the universe."
By Matt Weiseth
Nov 15, 2008

The crux I think is pulling the first roof with awkward hands and a tip sinker, and not the juggy mantle to the anchors that had a pretty good but slopey crimper.
By Nick W.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 8, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Wow, one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. Perfect jugs through the roof to a tough move past the first lip. The final mantle is insane. When I read the route description I thought that the crux described was turning the first roof by a mantle move, while the first roof is challenging, it is not the mantle described above. The final mantle comes two bolts after turning the first roof and definitely makes one fight to gain the chains.
By Deathkills
From: North Denver CO
Apr 14, 2010

Love this route, just got on it for the first time the other day.
The onsight crux was def. pulling the second mantle, but thankfully you can clip the chains before really committing over the lip...
awesome.
By chipacles
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Super fun route! Pulling the lip is the hard part...if you get the right beta for the upper mantle, it's really not that hard. Very well-protected, and just tons of fun! Get on it!!
By BrianWS
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The roof is insanely fun with some improbable foot beta (feet first!). The mantel over the first lip was by far the cruxiest move in the climb and felt much much more difficult than the Great Escape overall. Possibly a height/reach dependent crux?
By John Tex
From: My camper, CO
Jul 13, 2014

Anyone else end up about 5 feet right of the anchors and traverse over? Or did I mess this up? I manteled, but I think I might have done a much easier mantle a little to the right.