The route starts up a small corner, up bolts, staying right of the arete. The crux felt mid .10 and is toward the top, if not the top. The route was a little dirty and some of the rock up top looks scary yet it felt solid enough. It seems newer and will clean up to 3 stars hopefully.
This is just left of Suburbia before you round the arete to Time Square.
Follow safely spaced bolts to a nice sport anchor.
From: Durango, CO
Jul 28, 2011
I climbed this one in the summer of 2010 when the gnats were at there worst. It looked fun and was really enjoyable. Definitely harder than The Enterprise, which I had just led before this one.
|By Glen Charnoski|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2011
A great long exposed route! A little sketchy for the 5.10- leader. NO need for locking anchor draws (there are modernly equipped "clip your rope in" bolts. Cruxy low on the climb to 2nd bolt and again after the last clip. I had to reach around the left with a foot and hand to feel secure getting to the anchor.
|By Mike Howard|
Nov 12, 2011
FA: Mike Howard, Bob D.
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just climbed this one today. Pretty fun climb, although I didn't think there were any moves on it above a 5.9+ or maybe 5.10-. The hardest move for me was just clipping in to the anchors. One of the big flake underclings looked a little sketchy but seemed to hold fine. Good route.