This is one of the best routes on the left side of the Arsenal and is fairly popular, thought not nearly as much as routes of a similar grade at the Wasteland. It makes for a nice afternoon route in the summer and isn't too hard on the skin, except in one spot.
Slaggisimo is essentially the second route from the left with fixed draws on it, and is 2 routes right of the landmark Pretty Hate Machine, a classic 12c that climbs off the left side of the big ledge.
The first bolt doesn't have a fixed chain, but the rest of the route does. Climb choss to the ledge, stretch up and clip the first bolt. Roll right into the roof and make a bouldery stand-up move into a corner. Steep, blocky, sustained climbing takes you to a good rest at a break before the finishing bulge, which is a real punisher when you're pumped. Kneebar technology here and there may help . . .
1 or 2 quickdraws. The rest is fixed.
Amy Villacci on Slaggismo.
James Lucas photo.
|By Neal Carroll|
Sep 21, 2004
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Left leg knee pad...this thing is fun! Easy for the grade?