Login with Facebook
Medlicott Dome, Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
15 Minutes of Fame S 
Bachar-Yerian T 
Big Time S 
Ciebola T 
Coming, The T 
Deflector T 
Going, The TR 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P1 S 
Pretty in Pinkpoint, P2 S 
Shard T 
Shiner S 
Shipoopi! S 
Slacker/Carrion T 
Techno Tango T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Brian Bennett, 8/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jul 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Eliot Carlsen approaching the crux on Slacker/Carr...

  • MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fun crack/lieback (right start of The Coming) to sustained crux thin face. First pitch is a great cragging route and very tightly bolted in crux area. Upper pitches have no fixed anchors, great knobs, low angle knobby slab, and an airy but easy roof. 5.11a, 5.9, 5.7, 5.9, 5.2


    Start up the right (5.10a) start of The Coming, then continue straight up the face to a shallow left-facing corner (crux) and a bolted anchor at 110' (70m rope to lower). Pitch 2 follows bolts up the knobby face to trad anchor under a roof. Pitch 3 moves right to a bolt on the small roof, then over the roof (5.7) and up a long right-trending slab (1 more bolt, 1 thin cam if you find it) to a black belay ledge (thread sling, pro). If you move straight up and left from the 2nd bolt you may run into the single pro bolt on The Coming (if so you're too far left, move 40' right to belay). This pitch has 50' runouts on 5.6 terrain, more if you miss the thin cam. 4th pitch moves left and through the roof at the obvious flake (airy, exciting 5.9). Thin horizontal cracks on the face above for pro and an anchor (best anchor is thin finger/finger cams about 50' above the roof). Last pitch is 5.easy for a bit to 4th then 3rd class summit slabs.


    Pro to 4", doubles of thin to 1" cams. 6 bolts + bolted anchor pitch 1, 5 bolts pitch 2, 2 bolts pitch 3, none on last 2 pitches.

    Photos of Slacker/Carrion Slideshow Add Photo
    Ryan flashing crux.....
    Ryan flashing crux.....

    Comments on Slacker/Carrion Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony Lewis
    Sep 8, 2015

    Replaced all bolts with 3/8" stainless. Great fun climb. 1st pitch is continuous 5.10 with 5.11 crux. Well protected crux pitch. Great rock.
    Beyond the Guidebook:
    The Definitive Climbing Resource
    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run
    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps
    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes
    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!