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Central Tongue
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Brad and Tom's Climb 
Dickey Traverse 
Slabs Direct? 
Tom and Jay's Climb 

Slabs Direct? 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Sep 27, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: The way.


More high quality climbing. Weaving through the headwall is good fun.

P1 150' 5.6+
Climb up past two bolts to a low angle slab. A quick jog will take you to the bottom of the headwall. Climb the headwall (gear) past a short hand crack aiming for a lone bolt at the crest. From the last bolt move up and left to a bolted belay.

P2 100' 5.1
Scramble up to the top.


This route starts at the very bottom of the Central Tongue at some bolts.


3 Bolts and a short hand/fist sized crack

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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Dec 6, 2012

I favored starting from the other side midway up the tongue. Didn't know the starting bolts were there. Regardless, how are the bolts looking? The bolts were placed in the early eighty's.