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Desperado Wall
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Slabbra Cadabbra 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Tim Snyder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: nbrown on Aug 18, 2008
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  • Description 

    The name was inspired from yet another Black Sabbath tune, not to mention the magical moves one has to make at times on this route.

    P-1 Either climb straight up to first bolt, or traverse in from the left. Climb steep and excellent rock past 2 bolts to lower angeled terrain. Continue up wild steep slabbing, clipping bolts for pro, to the last section of the pitch that steepens up again. Climb on fantastic hold past a couple of more bolts and some small gear to the 2 bolt belay.

    P-2 Climb the steep face above past 2 bolts (crux) and a few slopers to a fantastic jug at the 3rd bolt. Step out right and mantel up to the 4th bolt (exciting!). Move up and left past a good #1 camelot to another bolt in the bulge. Crank past this to easier terrain, protected with small cams, and one more bolt. At the roof, step left and climb straight up to the 2 bolt anchor at the ledge. Note: The rap from here is about 115' to the top of pitch 1.


    Location 

    This is the the left line of bolts seen from the top of the gully right of "Reckless Criminal".


    Protection 

    P-1 small TCU's, and small wires, possibly a pink tricam
    P-2 light rack, up to a #1 camelot



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