Slabbed Up-Side da Head 

Although this route does cross that "questionable" line, it is still quite fun. It is sustained 5.10c/d until the crux, then a good 5.11a crux move. It does mellow after the crux.

It is a fun climb. I don't think the route is questionable because the little flake has been reinforced so it won't break. It is hard not to use it because you can't see it until you're on top of it. It is a good route that I felt is maybe 11a at the lower crux above the first bolt. I can't see that being 10b, it is thin and there is that crimp that is actually an underling pinch. Good moves up and right to 10c/d at the upper crux. You can keep going from the anchors and do the upper part (11b) of Dynamometer to the left for a pretty great longer pitch.

The route starts between two trees. And tho the crux is higher, it's a little exciting between the first and second bolt. :) Crimpy and fun.

Here's the FA info and description I noted when we first did it:

Slabbed Up-Side da Head 11a *
FA: Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson & Sam Davidson, July 2001
Begin 15 feet left of the previous route, between two pines and engage in sustained thin face past seven bolts to a pair of Fixe' ring anchors. 55 feet.

Question for the folks who have written the software for this website - how do you get a concensus grade of 10d when the rating votes look like this:

mattyskelton 5.11b/c
Curt Nelson 5.11a
Said 5.11a
HTP 5.11a
Brian Frank 5.11a
Tony B 5.10
Leo Paik 5.10b
Jeff Lockyer 5.11a

Not a single climber suggesting 10d, but only 2 calling it 5.10-ish and 6 calling 5.11-ish? Flawed methodology.

To respond to your long ago posted question about how the consensus is calculated....

Just as an experiment, I gave the letter grades a number such that 11a = 11, 11b = 11.25, 11c = 11.50, 11d = 11.75 and so forth. With the gradings you gave above, if you add up all of those (the 5.10 grade gets a 10.5 and the 11b/c gets a 11.375) then the average comes out to just over 10.9, which to me, equates a 5.10d. Although no one is putting their grade at 5.10d specifically, the average with the low 5.10 grades comes out to that. To me, the calculation is working out completely fine... now the grading by those who have sent might be faulted however :)

Thinking about it more, however, perhaps instead of the average another statistic like the mode should be used. In this case, the most popular grade would be 5.11a, and thus please you.