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By Adam Floyd
From Almo, Idaho and Las Vegas
Oct 9, 2012
Vegas the Dog

Hello everyone,
I was hoping for some red rocks advice. I was wondering if anyone had recommended slabs to climb 5.9-5.11. I was thinking more single pitch stuff, and would look for less big run outs in the 10+ to 11 range.

As an aside, I remember my only time previous being in Vegas seeing a big varnished face on the right of the canyon, while hiking into Cat in the Hat, and folks working it on fixed lines, at least I thought? any ideas what hard routes might be over that way?

Thanks in advance.
Adam


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Oct 9, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

Real Chickens - looks stellar but bold.

Stuff on Sumo Greatness Slab - can be tr'd as well.

Sick for Toys - there are a bunch of pitches on Corduroy Ridge that aren't in the guidbook as well.

Amazing Grace


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By Adam Floyd
From Almo, Idaho and Las Vegas
Oct 9, 2012
Vegas the Dog

Where is Real Chickens? I couldn't find it in the guide.


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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 9, 2012
South of Windy Peak

Real Domestic Chickens (10b) is on Slippery Peak Apron in First Creek Canyon.


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Oct 9, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

Sorry, meant Real Domestic Chickens.

It climbs past the right side of the overlap in the center of the picture.

The Red and the Black follows the crack system on the right side of the photo.
The Red and the Black follows the crack system on the right side of the photo.


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By Kyle Jackson
From Las Vegas, nv
Oct 9, 2012

Ultraman wall at first pullout has some good slab routes, panty mime at panty wall is pretty good. And their is a 11 something slab route right next to straight shooter that looks like fun if your in the area.


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By smassey
From CO
Oct 10, 2012

Not a slab per se, but the Next Century has a slabby crux with outstanding gear-protected face above.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Oct 10, 2012
Thumbtastic

I hear Sick For Toys has had bolts replaced and is good to go and a real classic.

The Mysterious Amphitheatre/Alcohol Wall area has some really nice climbs that require slab/smearing type cruxes, some good tens and an 11 there, plus nearby easier classics on Lotta Balls Wall. The approach is pretty reasonable for this area, flat with a little hill at the end.

Kyle's right about Ultraman, that stuff is pretty classic slabbin'. Sumo Greatness is good, too, but neither of those has the rock quality of the Mysterious Amp stuff.

Don't get sandbagged on that Slippery Peak stuff, i.e. Real Domestic Chickens-a long way to walk for what may or may not be good. By comparison, if you check out Lotta Balls/Alcohol first, you will need to hike another hour or so and possibly need to carry a folding saw to reach the base without losing your shirt-anyone who has actually climbed RDC feel free to correct me, I'm thinking no one who's posted here so far has. I did Advance Romance (short distance right) a couple of years ago and found the rap situation so bad that I walked off, I spent a lot more time hiking and brush-whacking than I did climbing-a decent adventure, but nowhere near classic route or rock quality. It looked like Real Domestic was in a water streak and may have rusted bolts by now, for what it's worth.

Dream Of Wild Turkeys has a fun slab crux-I'd suggest picking up a copy of the Supertopo book and sticking to classics til you know the area better.

The fixed lines you saw were most likely neon-colored, high up on the wall, and were being used to toprope/photograph/hangdog the headpoint FA of "crack rock", listed in Handren's guide. I'll save my comments on top-down and fixed-rope assisted new route development for another time.


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Oct 10, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

All Killer No Filler wrote:
Don't get sandbagged on that Slippery Peak stuff, i.e. Real Domestic Chickens-a long way to walk for what may or may not be good. By comparison, if you check out Lotta Balls/Alcohol first, you will need to hike another hour or so and possibly need to carry a folding saw to reach the base without losing your shirt-anyone who has actually climbed RDC feel free to correct me, I'm thinking no one who's posted here so far has.


I haven't climbed it, but I did rap RDC after climbing The Red and the Black at least. The bolts appeared to be in decent shape, although 30' or more apart. It did look like high quality friction climbing though. I can't say the same for The Red and the Black, which is more or less a solo on the upper part of the route due to crappy pro behind useless flakes.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 10, 2012

If you're willing to climb way above a sketchy bolt, Red Heat is one of the better friction routes i've done in RR. Technical, low angle face, with a very committing friction crux. The bolt will likely hold a fall, but the route really does need to be rebolted at some point soon.


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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 11, 2012
Third pillar of dana descent.

Smears for fears area if you want some heads up 5 11 slab


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