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Cheeky Bastard 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 566
Submitted By: NorCalNomad on Feb 23, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Cheeky Bastard Topo

Description 

There is a crevice that makes a bomber undercling in the rock that as of November 2012 some yellow jackets have taken up residence. If you climb before their nest warms up it's ok. Or maybe the winter will take them out.

Location 

The obvious series of bolts on the slab to the left of Nemesis (the arete).

Protection 

4 bolts (maybe 5) and chains I think


Photos of Cheeky Bastard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: for a minute im in the Verdon again!
for a minute im in the Verdon again!
Rock Climbing Photo: crux last move, just where it should be!
crux last move, just where it should be!

Comments on Cheeky Bastard Add Comment
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By Floyd Hayes
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is called Cheeky Bastard 5.7 in "Locals Guide to Rock Climbs of Northeast California." After the 4th bolt I moved left and then back right to the anchor. A friend got in a small cam on the left to protect the final move.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
Mar 18, 2014

Updated the name thanks Floyd.
By splitclimber
Feb 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

hard finish to the new? anchor location but a great climb that could probably be lead on gear. I think I missed another right hand mono for a better finish. I never grab anchor chains, but did on this one. :)

The line left of the bolt line was great too.

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