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Wall Street
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Slab Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,950
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Slab

Description 

This well bolted slab route is located just to the right of the bush below Puppy Love. Pull a 5.7 move off the deck and clip the first of many closely spaced bolts. A good intro to soft sandstone fiction climbing. Rap from a two bolt anchor at 90ft to prevent deep rope groves from top ropping.

This route used to have only 2 bolts on it.


Location 

This well bolted slab roue is located to the right of Puppy Love and Steel your Face.


Protection 

7-8 bolts



Photos of Slab Route Slideshow Add Photo
The Slab Route starts just right of the bush under Puppy Love.
The Slab Route starts just right of the bush under...
Full resolution shows the bolts. The real challenge is from the ground to the third bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Full resolution shows the bolts. The real challeng...
I tried to get a good shot of the slope of the slab.  It starts out pretty steep (as far as slab goes) and slowly levels out as you ascend.
BETA PHOTO: I tried to get a good shot of the slope of the sla...
Comments on Slab Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy VanHouten
From: Park City, UT
May 11, 2009

Wow. Every year this get's alittle worse. Decent pockets but the whole frickin' route is covered in sand...hard to use "friction" when you are standing on sand covered sandstone. Groves at the top are getting pretty bad...be sure to rap off.

By JeffUT
From: Roy, Utah
May 24, 2010

My 14 yr. old son's first lead climb. First move was the only 5.7 in my opinion, the rest was like walking up a steep ramp. Good one to train someone on, as long as you don't have to lower them off. Rapping down is highly recommended.

By Ty Meadows
From: Moab, UT
Jun 30, 2010

Good foot work. Major rope drag. Use a 70 meter.

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 31, 2010

nice easy going route. It's relaxing and a fun warmup as well as a training route.

By Eric Odenthal
Jul 8, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

knot the end of your rope!

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 29, 2013

The route should have anchors after the third bolt. The top part of the climb is literally a walk up.

By Toby Wehler
From: Chandler, AZ
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Had to skip some upper bolts due to lack of quick draws...didn't realize this route was so long looking at it from the ground. Thought it was fun though.

By Rick Vermeil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with Garret's comment above. Way over bolted and too long. This route is pointless after the fourth bolt. A 5.7- move to clip the first bolt then 5.5 climbing to the fourth, followed by 5.4 down to hiking as you get closer to the anchor. I stood up and walked past the last three bolts to the anchor. I liked the start of the route but its unnecessarily long. They could of used some of these bolts on some of the other very poorly bolted routes on Wall Street.