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Slab climbing

Original Post
Jaden Lojik · · Midvale, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 10

Hey there,
Was just wanting to fish for some good Learning Slab climbs in LCC from all you experienced wise climbing Wizards. I was doing Pentapitch and got shutdown trying to do "Pearls Before Swine 10c Slab". Was pretty disappointed I couldn't do it, but decided I just need more practice and Technique. Anyway, if you have any good routes from easy to moderate Slab to learn on(in LCC or around), I would highly appreciate it if you would ever be so kind to comment its name below.
Thanks!

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

Nubbins to nowhere has some good slab moves, a bit easier than pearls before swine. Betty's altered elbow has some quality well protected 5.9 slab. Stiffler's mom has some good slab and gets progressively harder as you go. Final link is excellent, 5.9 friction. You can also throw a TR on neuromancer from the top of p1 of pentapitch.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

I'd try again in December or January. Slab in July...either you're a masochist or a slab god!

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

I hang dogged my way up Pearls Before Swine a few weeks ago. It was tough! Commenting because I'd also be interested some LCC practice slabs.

Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

There's a lot of slab climbs that you can make harder by eliminating holds. Go nuts, search out the thinnest holds on the route and/or go for the longest highstep you can make. That's what I did when I was trying to get better at slab.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Alan Doak wrote:There's a lot of slab climbs that you can make harder by eliminating holds. Go nuts, search out the thinnest holds on the route and/or go for the longest highstep you can make. That's what I did when I was trying to get better at slab.
Hey Alan,

This guy's looking for you to recover his gear from Lurking Fear:

mountainproject.com/v/need-…

Maybe he contacted you on Supertopo.com
Jaden Lojik · · Midvale, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 10

Thank you all for your advice and suggested routes! I appreciate it dearly!

travisschenk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

If you want to improve your slab technic climb with tennis balls in your hands. Forces foot work to improve.

Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

Thanks Frank, a couple people noticed his latest ping, and we finally got in contact with each other.

Travis, that's an interesting idea.

Also, I found that learning how to stand up on a slack line (especially from a seated position) really improved my ability to rock onto a balancy high-step and press up. It trains the muscles to not work against each other and jitter out of control.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

Pebbles and Bambam. Mostly 5.7 slab with a short 5.9 friction crux

Emil Briggs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 125

Surprised no one has mentioned this but on harder slab routes shoes can make a huge difference. I prefer a moderately stiff shoe but with a flat rather than downturned last.

Jaden Lojik wrote:Hey there, Was just wanting to fish for some good Learning Slab climbs in LCC from all you experienced wise climbing Wizards. I was doing Pentapitch and got shutdown trying to do "Pearls Before Swine 10c Slab". Was pretty disappointed I couldn't do it, but decided I just need more practice and Technique. Anyway, if you have any good routes from easy to moderate Slab to learn on(in LCC or around), I would highly appreciate it if you would ever be so kind to comment its name below. Thanks!
Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

Yeah, TC Pro's are amazing on slab. Here's a video of Beth Rodden climbing Kauk Slab in a pair:

vimeo.com/32117058

Ben Ricketts · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 41

Kermit's Wad is a another good one to try. You can TR this after leading Cranial if you just want to concentrate on technique and not fear control.

Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 190

Friends don't let friends do slabs. :)

Michael Beasley · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 90

The slab finish to Fred Beckeys route near or in gate buttress is quite exciting. Not sure what line exactly, there's alot of bolts up there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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