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Sky's The Limit 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall Sam Owings
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: duh on Feb 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

Climb the face just left of Freakshow. Tricky layback crux at the 2nd bolt leads to 80' of easier fun climbing to the anchor.

Protection 

10 bolts, chain anchors.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Sep 23, 2007

Jack, it's 10 bolts to the chains.

This route provides an interesting and tricky two move wonder at the layback section. Coming up to it I tried it as a pinch first and realized quickly that wouldn't work. Upper headwall is fun climbing using lots of plates & edges. 4 bolts on lower section of route through bowl then 6 bolts to top.

~Susan
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Interesting moves down low and then some nice pulls up to the top on the fake headwall.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 11, 2009

In 2 years it seems that 400 pounds of rubble have come off this route. Key holds are now missing, mid section is complete shale and upper headwall plates look like they're going to sail down to your belayer like a frisbee.

What once was a multi-star 10a route now gets a bomb. Climb at your own risk.

~Susan
By Clif Clap
May 24, 2013

I thought this route was great fun. Interesting moves low with very cool lie back move on a sloping edge to a high left pocket where you can secure a good clipping position. The route changes character after the fourth bolt and follows positive holds to the anchors.

As for the damage of the rock, I can't attest to how it looked years ago but can only iterate that it's current condition feels perfectly climbable and enjoyable.