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BETA PHOTO: Skyline Pig as seen from the base of the route.
Enjoyable, sustained, and very interesting face climbing on solid rock. Skyline Pig is on the east side of Kindergarten Rock. To access the climb, park at the south parking lot and walk down the road to Kindergarten Rock. Skyline Pig is the southern-most and lowest climb on the east face. Look for new bolts and old pins following a direct line up a face past some shallow cracks. The route is straightforward but requires good technique and careful balance in places. You will run into two 5.10-level cruxes--the first a pumpy pull over past a bulge about 40 feet up, and the second a balancing act right before the anchors. Rap from the first pitch anchors (a 60m rope will reach, I'm not sure about a 50m). There is a second pitch that face climbs up a large corner past large bolts which I've never tried--the weeds poking out of the corner are a deterrent.
Recently re-bolted. New bolts supplemented by old drilled angles make for very sure pro. Solid anchors at the top.
Climber works the first crux of Skyline Pig.
|By Chris R|
Jul 5, 2002
Did this route again on 2 July 2002, this time did the second pitch. P2 is a 5.8 stemming pitch of about 40 ft. past three bolts, to anchors. The belay is a hanging belay and isn't really worth the effort. The second pitch isn't all that great, though pitch 1 remains one of the best in the Garden.
|By Dylan Scott|
Jun 1, 2004
Has anyone else found this to be an extremely hard 10b? Have some holds been pulled out maybe?
|By Scott Edwards|
Oct 5, 2005
One of the best face routes around. A technical climb and in my opinion the .10b rating is right on. Just remember...when the climbing gets tough, stem (except for the balancing act at the top). A couple options exist at the second bulge, veer left (thin,balancy) or veer right (steep jugs).
|By Cody Cook|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 29, 2007
Ric Geiman's GoG guide suggests this route is 5.11d. I know this may be questioned as a stiff .10b, but we would all agree that this isn't close to .11d. However, about a quarter of the way up the route there is a line of hanger-less bolts that head left over very difficult terrain, and seem to make their way to the present-day anchors at the top of P1. Does anyone have history on this line? Is this perhaps the original line that Geiman referred to as .11d? Has this line ever been climbed?
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 6, 2010
Did this route last night - it was very fun. Had to try it twice! Very balancy, very delicate climbing, had to trust my hands a lot more than I'm used to lately.... Will do again! Top right anchor could use some tightening, otherwise it's all good.
From: Colorado Springs
May 4, 2011
Finally did the second pitch last night. Not a bad 25' extension. 4 bolts up probably 5.9 terrain to the anchor. It's a hanging belay, and you can either pop up and left to the walk off ramp for Kindergarden Rock, take trad gear and finish a line to the top, or go back down. There is one loose flake around the second bolt of the pitch that is easily avoidable. You will have to bring your partner up from here unless you have a 70m. A 60m will let you rap down to the last bolt where you can downclimb or make another quick rap.
Jul 22, 2012
Rating: Probably an honest modern-day 10c. The old 9+ and 10a ratings would now be a bit of a sand-bag. This is partly due to a large flake that came off about 20' up.
Safety: Caution with what remains of the first flake, 20 feet up, which is just below an obvious blank section (where the old flake was.) We move belayer, dogs, etc, if the leader is using the flake. It is easy enough to avoid with some cool layback moves to the right - increases the difficulty by maybe a letter grade.
I believe the route was retro'ed twice. Once in the 80's, using pins, after which it still carried the "R" rating, and most recently with bolt placements in about 1997. The FP is getting old, but appears to remain serviceable.
Pitch Two: P2 was retro'ed at the same time as P1, and at the time it was a pleasant 5.8 dihedral. The flake on the second pitch is another matter, as Mountainmicah aptly notes. It is very large and loose and should be avoided completely.
Crux: There are three difficulties on the route. The first is the right layback to avoid the flake 20 feet up. Using the flake (as many do) is still a minor crux.
The second crux is at the shallow dihedral just above the flake and blank area. Protection is very good, though it is easier to make the crux clip after pulling the move - the last clip is still at your feet, so not an issue.
The third crux is in the light green lichen area near the top. A fun, balancy series of moves up and left to the belay ledge. Caution for an old broken piton in this area. Don't use it and don't fall onto it. Sticks way out, sharp edges from the broken end, needs to be pulled by someone experienced in route upkeep.
FA: The actual modern-day route takes the line described in Rolofson's 1988 text as "Skyline Pig Direct" and shows a 5.10a rating and FA by Mark Rolofson and Peter Phister, 10/78.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 15, 2012
My favorite 10 in the Garden! Definitely the 10 b/c range. Start on a sharp face climb up to a slight overhang (which I would say is a crux) then move to a fun, short finger crack. After that, it gets somewhat slabby to the finish. Clipping the anchors was definitely the scariest part of it - it requires a very thin, balancing traverse with minimum hand placements, but don't let that stop you! This is a must do. The cruxes are pumpy but fun. Be careful for a few spinning bolts - other than that, it's fairly well-protected.
Descent of first pitch: 60m just barely makes it.