From the top of Lunch Rock proper you can see a ledge that runs to the right, past Mission Control. Near the right end of this ledge is a big pod with a hand crack running up a little ways. This is best accessed by hiking past Lunch Rock and scrambling up to the left, to the end of the ledge. Be sure to have your belayer set a piece (small nuts work fine) in one of the cracks before you begin. Start in the pod and use the crack to pull out of the pod to another ledge. Staying left of the arete, face climb past three bolts and top out on the first pinnacle (Orange Ledge). There is a two bolt anchor that can be used for top roping several climbs that finish here. You'll need slings to extend the anchor for that. When cleaning, just walk off to the East (past the tree, onto the hillside) and follow the last chute down and back to the right.
Just right of Lunch Rock
3 bolts, pro to 1" - Two bolt anchor, no rings or chains
|By Dave Kos|
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
0.75 camalot (green) will work to protect the moves out of the pod.
|By Raquel ROCKY Robles|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 13, 2011
There's two way of starting the route. Left side along beautiful or straight up the pod. There's also a different variation to finish on the last bolt to the left.
I love the move in the pod. Definitely need to put a protection just above the pod, then extend the sling to prevent rope drag. I love this route.
There's no quicklink or rap ring on top of the anchor. I used beautiful's anchor which has quicklinks to rap off from the top.
From: San Diego, California
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I love this little route, exposed and beautiful. I tried to lead first try because someone said it was all sport. When i reached the short traverse right w/ no pro i decided to TR. Bring a .75. If not the moves arent too sketchy to clip the first bolt, but whatever you do don't fall. Or just be smart and TR. Have fun!
|By Jason Kim|
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
Start in the pod, it's a fun move and easy to protect.