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Sky Valley

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Change Is Gonna Come S,TR 
Chain Lightning S 
Double Play S 
Driller on the Loose S 
Exposure in the Making S 
Fire Inside, The S 
Hunger For The Time S 
Serial Driller S 
Sky Diamond S 
Thunderbolts S 
Two Steps Forward One Step Back S 
Wind Dance S 
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Sky Valley  

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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Apr 29, 2005
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Sky Valley is one of the mid-mountain crags and is great for a warmer day area. When there are waiting lines and everyone's dog hanging out at Ridgeline you can go here and get on some quality climbs without the feel of being at the gym. This area consists of two crags and the climbing varies from slab to vertical to slightly overhanging. Many climbs are shaded for most of the day as one crag is surrounded by large pines and the other's climbs are in a little grotto.All of the routes here are sport so all you need is a rope and a rack of draws and you are set. Recommended climbs include: Exposure in the Making 5.8, Hunger for the Time 5.9+, Thunderbolts 5.11a, Driller on the Loose 5.11c/d, and Serial Driller 5.12b.

Getting There 

Driving up Catalina Highway you will park at San Pedro Vista at mile marker 17.8. Hike along the right side of the road until you pass two culverts (not grated drains). At the second culvert you will notice a small wash. Follow a semi-cairned trail to the ridge. Along the way you should pass a large slab, hiking to the ridge on it's left. At the ridge you will see two crags, one to your right and one to your left along with a beautiful view of the San Pedro Valley. Hiking left along the ridge will bring you to twp 5.10s that share an anchor (Sky Diamond and The Fire Inside). The rest of the climbs descend down and around the face of this crag. Hiking right you will find a 5th class descent gully between two pinnacles on the right crag. Descend here vias 5th class down climb or rappel. You may also hike down and around on the left side, but not the right. Once in the grotto Driller on the Loose is easily identifiable as it is the orange overhanging face. All climbs for this area are listed in Eric Fazio-Rhicard's Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sky Valley:
Exposure in the Making   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hunger For The Time   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Chain Lightning   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sky Diamond   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Thunderbolts   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Double Play   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Driller on the Loose   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Serial Driller   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Sky Valley

Featured Route For Sky Valley
Technical?  Joe Kreidel getting into some funky bu...

Serial Driller 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Sky Valley
Start on an orange face, move right and into a seam, and then finish on a slabby face. The movement in the seam is fantastic and there is plenty of friction for the feet....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Sky Valley Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2009
There is a new sport route on the rock formation immediately southeast (down road) of the rappel. In my estimation the route is 5.9, 40 ft, and a nice addition. I have no idea regarding the FA.
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 27, 2012
The directions to this crag (or lack thereof-- there's only a misleading map or two) in the Squeezing the Lemon book are terrible. I guess if you're on this page that doesn't really matter, but we tried to follow the book and ended up totally turned around.

The book doesn't mention that you should park at the San Pedro pullout, and it shows the trails leading up from somewhere further up the road.
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 23, 2012
FWIW: I had never attempted Sky Diamond or The Fire Inside before thinking the face was too short to mess with, but it's actually got a very nice variety of interesting moves on mostly solid rock. Was shady most of the day too. Recommended.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 24, 2012
The SQ II guidebook doesn't mention parking at San Pedro Vista because that is not where you want to park! If you actually look at the overhead on pg. 236 you will see it has an arrow pointing to the parking for Barnum Rock a mere 150 yards up the road. There is also now parking on the downhill side of the road just a little down road of where the trail starts.

I will not go into what I think of people that cannot find a crag that is visible from the road and less than 10 minutes off the road, but, gym memberships might be cheaper than all the frustration of finding things that don't have huge trails and 20 other climbers going to them.

Ha Ha.

Having said that, I promise to do a better job of getting people to this very spread out and convoluted climbing area in the next edition of Squeezing The Lemmon.
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 8, 2012
So Eric... When is the new edition coming out...?
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2012
At the risk of sounding like I should have been climbing on the Gumby Wall I agree that the find route in the Squeezing the Lemmon II could use some fine tuning. I hiked around for a good long while and ended up heading to the bone yard cause I couldn't find Sky Valley. There are a ton of formations around that area and more than one fifth class gulley. The description on the Mountain Project link would have gotten me there, I think.

Thanks for the work on the book though, EFR, it is very helpful at times I just wanted to second the sentiment above
By cattrampkid
Oct 11, 2014
Made it out here the other day, wasn't very hard to find. I think why it's difficult to get confused on the approach is because this place is really two formations about 30yards apart from each other. If you follow the cairns from the approach description, it'll land you on a Forest Service trail that will take you up to the ridge where you can see out into the San Pedro Valley. When at the ridge, facing slightly NE you can see the Boneyard and further north Ridgeline. This view is smack in the middle of the two formations, with the majority of the easier climbing down and to your left and the fewer harder climbs down and to your right. The right formation has a 5th class decent gully around to it's right side as it says in the approach description, while the left one has a visible climber's trail that branches off due north of the main trail. I hope this helps clarify any confusion anyone might have. Happy Climbing!
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