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Arno's Corrner 
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Last Unicorn, The 
Rain Dance 
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Sky Streak 

5.10b PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
FA: Uwe Schneider and Chris Stevens - 4/29/1991
Season: Early spring through late fall.
Submitted By: Brian P on Sep 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Tim Martel on Sky Streak, 2004.

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Description 

Variation to pitch 1 of Science Friction Wall and alternate to pitch 1 of The Last Unicorn. Start at two bolt anchor between the two routes mentioned and up steep wall past two bolts.

Up and trend right to join The Last Unicorn, you'll finish up steep headwall with bolts then heading right into an overlap, anchor is two bolts (can backup with gear) top of pitch 2 of Last Unicorn.

I've never gone this way, but up and left to join Science Friction Wall.


Location 

Route starts right of Wonder Wall tree ledge at two bolt anchor. Take South Buttress trail to bottom area of Inferno Wall, up 4th class ledge/gully to Wonder Wall tree ledge, across this, down short chimney, and easy 5th class to anchor. The best guide to Whitehorse is the "Whitehorse Ledge Rock Climbing Super-Topo" by S. Peter Lewis, see www.tmcbooks.com.

Rappel back to anchor area and reverse approach.


Protection 

Bolts (some older) and standard rack, a little runout in spots.