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5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
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Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
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Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
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Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

Sky Pilot 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Bowker, 1986
Page Views: 1,922
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Me at the crux of Sky Pilot. Super fun route!

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>


Sequency 5.10 climbing up a featured crack leads to one or two dicey traverse moves that span between the end of the crack and a series of positive holds. The upper half of the is featured by a series of horiztonals that climb like a ladder.


This route is just left of Arm and Hammer. This start begins on a ledge and follows a incipient crack.


Bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2014
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 4, 2007

I love this route...I climbed it a bunch of times last season... It works well as a warm up for harder climbing due to the fact that the route is "long" but the hard part is brief...it is also worthy of the effort if 5.11 is your limit, just don't come unhinged when you have to run out the easy stuff after the crux...or bring some gear....
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Sep 2, 2008

Sky Pilot is one of the few sport routes at Rumney that has one or two DO NOT FALL moves. The moves aren't hard, but you would certainly deck if you came off.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 5, 2008

i seem to remember that one nut between the end of the well protected crux and the next ledge would make the route super safe... or was it a cam?
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Nov 15, 2008

It's OK by me to retro bolt the upper portion. The climb was originally done w/ preplaced nuts on the lower half.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jan 24, 2009

I dunno...after the stiff crux, the runout up top seems mild in comparison. if someone wants to bolt it, ok, but if you want to protect the top, and have the option to do it with gear, then why not do it that way?
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Feb 6, 2009

Because it's Rumney. Make it safe.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Mar 10, 2009

I understand the desire to make it SAFER, but by that logic, why not put a bolt on Blueballs? That would sure make that safer. Anyway, that's a topic for the forum, which I'll gladly start.

So it was all originally climbed on gear, right? Why wasn't it just bolted from the get-go? Also, when it WAS bolted, why wasn't it bolted "safely," i.e. bolts protecting the upper half? Just wondering...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 10, 2009

david start the forum post.. i would love to contribute.. :) for this route i agree with you...retro bolting it kinda seems like a cop out...plus if your climbing 5.11b and you cant climb the 5.6 run out... idk... that'd be a little strange...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

mike he forum has been started under the sport climbing section it is titled retrobolting...
By AWinters
From: NH
Mar 13, 2009

anyone that's climbing .llb shouldn't have a problem with that upper section. the spice factor adds to it and makes it a memorable climb. i'd leave her alone.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route is awesome. I used to be for putting one more bolt post crux but after leading it I think it should be left as is. There is one or two more moves past the crux that you could fall from (due to pump) but you wouldn't deck. The only way I see decking as a potential is if you were to blow the move onto the ledge or falling while on the ledge. (Im not trying to reopen the discussion here just posting what I feel about the route so people know)
By twellman
Sep 3, 2011

This route is pretty fun, though the 5.11 climbing is really just a traverse from the 2nd bolt clipping jug to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. The sequence of holds on the steep lower section makes for a nice flow of climbing though.

I think the route could benefit from a bolt between the 3rd bolt and the first piton. I imagine many people make it there with a good pump going, and it is certainly possible to fall on the way to the piton. Yeah, you can protect it with gear, but if all moves at Rumney that were protectable by gear were left unbolted, there would be a lot more mixed climbs and less sports climbs at Rumney!
By Peter Hardman
Sep 12, 2011

Tried this route on 2nd September and could not figure out the crux between the second and third bolts. Was able to flash Arm and Hammer after failing so either a hold is gone or I really was missing something.

Also while pulling back onto the rock the big undercut at the start of the route came off in my hand! The hold that remains is still a good side pull and doesn't seem to have affected the start in any way.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Sep 12, 2011

Peter, the crux is definitely a bit sneaky so i bet you just missed it. was the hold that came off before the first bolt? or the undercling at the 2nd bolt?
By S. Neoh
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Warning! - Beta Spoiler - there is a right foot hold which can be difficult to spot that is critical for me do the crux at grade.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 7, 2012

I read the forum discussion about adding a bolt... was the last bolt ever added? I want to try this route but ground fall from 40 feet up makes me think twice.
By S. Neoh
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I do not know for sure, since I have not been by 5.8 for over a year now, but my guess is a bolt has not been added. You can protect using a vertical crack after the 3rd bolt and a cam in the 0.5 to 0.75 BD size or a large nut (size 9 BD?). But holds on this climb tend to stay wet for quite a while and it was still very damp up at Rumney yesterday.
If you are looking for your next .11a/b, you are probably better off with climbs like Tropicana, Bullwinkle Craters, A Man with Heuco in His Pants, Three Easy Pieces. Stick clip the 1st bolt on all these climbs though. That said, you should not skip hard .10 climbs the likes of Peer Pressure, Centerpiece, Waimea, Clusterphobia, etc, etc on your way to these .11 climbs.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 7, 2012

Thanks! I don't have any trad gear, so I'll stick to other routes.
By Tyson Miller
From: Lebanon, NH
Jun 5, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

There are now 2 glue in bolts that protect the upper part of this climb now. I saw them last time I was at 5.8.
By Johnny Nubbins
Aug 11, 2014

Fun climb. Might recommend stick clipping, as some of the holds before the first bolt are really flexing a bit - a fall before the first clip would not be pretty there.
By Gabriel Faucher
Aug 17, 2014

can be led with 2 bolts and 2 cams, i placed a BD .5 at the beggining and a .75 at the end.
By S. Neoh
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I led this today with only three "original" bolts and the two new glue-ins. Certainly safe enough but felt quite different to me not having to place gear and clip the two old pins (which are now gone by the way). The runout from the last glue-in to the anchors is significant but on easy ground. There is gear possibility in between to eliminate this runout.

Edit: Thanks to RCA for providing the glue-in's and the Bolt Elf (you know who you are!) for putting them in! This route should get Quick Clips at its anchors. Hint, hint!!
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