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This is like Tai Chi, but practiced where rock and sky meet. I always find climbing at Dude's energizing, particularly on a sunny, crisp fall day. It has a lot of variety in 75 feet. We climbed this after the new guidebook was published.
This is two routes right of Dude's Jam Crack. Start in a left-facing corner/ramp, that has a short roof at the bottom. A mixture of gear and bolts gets you up to and over a strenuous, bucktoothed overhang, a technical overlap, and the headwall above.
6 protection bolts; Single cams from 1/2" to #2 Camalot, a couple of medium/large stoppers. Extra 1" cam might be helpful. Bolt anchor.
|By Todd Ritter|
Aug 8, 2011
Excellent route and well bolted. The trad gear supplements the bolts; all crux moves are bolt protected. One each #0.4-1 C4 along with a few small/med. stoppers is plenty. Two distinct cruxes (blend into one if you miss the rest!) with an "it isn't over yet" finish. Varied climbing throughout.
Jul 21, 2012
Great route, very pumpy and challenging and enjoyable. You must arrive to the headwall roof with a strong preparation for crimping.
If you don't want to lug the whole rack, I placed Metolius orange, then a No 2. Camalot, then Metolius black below the first bolt, then Metolious green (#1 Camalot) between a couple bolts up on the headwall. But that's just what I placed. There are other options, brau.
|By David A. Turner|
Sep 21, 2012
In response to Chris T.'s tick list comment, there is one place on the climb where one hand jam is helpful in what looks like some wet, icky stuff. I think you will find that it is instead a dry patina, leaving nothing on your skin. No odor problems either.