Sky Chi 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Dave Turner, Danny Kalb, & CSU crew |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | David A. Turner on Oct 25, 2010 |
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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>
Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is like Tai Chi, but practiced where rock and sky meet. I always find climbing at Dude's energizing, particularly on a sunny, crisp fall day. It has a lot of variety in 75 feet. We climbed this after the new guidebook was published.
Location This is two routes right of Dude's Jam Crack. Start in a left-facing corner/ramp, that has a short roof at the bottom. A mixture of gear and bolts gets you up to and over a strenuous, bucktoothed overhang, a technical overlap, and the headwall above.
Protection 6 protection bolts; Single cams from 1/2" to #2 Camalot, a couple of medium/large stoppers. Extra 1" cam might be helpful. Bolt anchor.
By Todd Ritter
From: Lafayette
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| Excellent route and well bolted. The trad gear supplements the bolts; all crux moves are bolt protected. One each #0.4-1 C4 along with a few small/med. stoppers is plenty. Two distinct cruxes (blend into one if you miss the rest!) with an "it isn't over yet" finish. Varied climbing throughout. |
By Pinklebear
Jul 21, 2012
| Great route, very pumpy and challenging and enjoyable. You must arrive to the headwall roof with a strong preparation for crimping.
If you don't want to lug the whole rack, I placed Metolius orange, then a No 2. Camalot, then Metolius black below the first bolt, then Metolious green (#1 Camalot) between a couple bolts up on the headwall. But that's just what I placed. There are other options, brau. |
By David A. Turner
Sep 21, 2012
| In response to Chris T.'s tick list comment, there is one place on the climb where one hand jam is helpful in what looks like some wet, icky stuff. I think you will find that it is instead a dry patina, leaving nothing on your skin. No odor problems either. |
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