Skunks in the Gym
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This one might be a classic if it was in a better location. It is still a great climb that i might describe as a more difficult take on the style of Lonesome Dove. Hyper technical on-your-feet climbing on edges and indistinct holds leading up the slab. finding the bolts is easy but finding the path between them is often kinda tricky as the route wonders a bit.
Start at the top of the slab/scramble that gives you access top the upper middle section of Triple Corners. There is an anchor here, you should use it.
Climb up the steep sometimes wet groove chimney that leads to a nice ledge at the base of the face that is the meat of Skunks in the Gym. Climb the tricky face wondering a little till your feet are sore and you find your self at a very tricky last couple of moves to get to the anchor. There are a few ways to do it. I still don't know the "right" way, i make it feel pretty hard.
in the center section of Triple Corners look for a nice steep right facing slab protected by some steep climbing up an often wet groove.
9 bolts to anchors
BETA PHOTO: 5 years ago I pulled off the critical clipping hol...
|Comments on Skunks in the Gym
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 11, 2009
Very cool climbing. don't even think you're going to muscle your way up this one
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Jul 19, 2009
This route is very rad :) And because of it's location, I imagine there won't be a line on it ever. (and if there is, you can see it from the ground)
Jul 23, 2012
Climbed it again on July 14 2012. Without the hold at around the 6th bolt it's definitely harder for short people like me. What use to be a delicate move up from the hold is now a desperate smear to get to the next good crimp. I have a 5 ft 2 in span and I couldn't reach by my second at 5 ft 9 in had no problems and popped his hand right on the next crimper.
Still love it though. Great climb.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Jul 23, 2012
FA - Dave Quinn '96
|By Anna C.|
Apr 29, 2013
Even if the chimney is dripping, go for it anyway. The start is not too hard and bolts are just where you want them. And the upper face is always dry!
|By Benjamin Mackall|
From: Hingham, MA
Oct 6, 2013
What a seriously amazing climb. Great sustained balancy moves on a near blank face on one of the most charismatic features at Rumney, IMHO WAAAY better than Lonesome Dove as a slab climb. Excellent view, a little bit of an adventure, a funky chimney start to spice things up... jeez.