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Skull Cave
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Skull Fuck 

Skull Fuck 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
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Page Views: 1,281
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 4, 2006
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Description 

Skull Fuck is just left of Daydream Nation, and the only route in the Skull Cave that's equipped with chain draws.

This route is all about pockets - some more natural than others. Nevertheless, with decent rock, thuggish moves, and thought provoking sequences, Skull Fuck is definitely worth doing.

Due to heavy seepage, it's extremely important to inspect the bolts on this route. A 50 meter rope will easily get you back to the ground


Protection 

Quickdraws. There are anchors at the top.



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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a

The fifth bolt is hanging out about 1/4 inch behind the hanger. Someone has attached the link to the chain, so nobody will be tempted to use it. As the description says, make sure you inspect the bolts on this line. A few of them are due for replacement.

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2014
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X E8 7a

I was on this about a year ago! Has this been re-bolted since? Bolts had cobwebs and looked super old and sketchy. This was such a fun route that I would really like to work it and send it this year! But, the route also has some of the sketchiest bolts. I will come and clean it this year if someone could bolt it! I would be extremely appreciative! I would re-bolt it if I had the equipment and knew how to do it! Thank you very much if anyone bolts it...I will def. donate some money to the cause!

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a

No, it has not been rebolted. The condition of this route and that bolt in particular are as of the end of November, 2013. The route is doable until replacement, the crux fall will be a little longer, should you blow it.

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.13c/d 8b 31 X E8 7a

You mean do-able and will be longer if a bolt blows out?

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Mar 5, 2014
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a

Ok. The 5th bolt is attached to itself, biner to hanger, because it is garbage. Now, I suppose you could clip it, but it is in that position for a reason. The hanger is about 1/4 inch away from the rock because the bolt and sleeve are pulling out. Now, it IS doable, but if you blow the crux sequence, your fall WILL be longer, because you should not be using the bolt. So, I worked it took longer falls and then punched through the crux w/o falling, through two sections, ground through crux, clipped sixth through anchor. The rest of the bolts appear fine, but, use your discretion. And, since this route seeps every year up until summer/fall, reinspect the bolts anyway. The best time to climb this and day Dream, are in the fall through early winter.