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r. Lou's Wall
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Scoop Arete T,TR 
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Skink T,TR 
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Skink 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Newman
Page Views: 4,942
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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BETA PHOTO: Skink

Description 

This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.

Location 

On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.

Protection 

G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.


Photos of Skink Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: top roping skink
top roping skink
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Coyle working on the crux of Skink. Definitel...
Mike Coyle working on the crux of Skink. Definitel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Skink on a beautiful day.
Skink on a beautiful day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pawel is 6'7", so he ripped this one up.
Pawel is 6'7", so he ripped this one up.
Rock Climbing Photo: This felt WAY harder than 5.6!  Also, I encountere...
This felt WAY harder than 5.6! Also, I encountere...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb for good photos. Photographer stands a...
Great climb for good photos. Photographer stands a...

Comments on Skink Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

I am not sure how you could call this a G or PG climb if you are a shorty. You have to make the crux move off the ledge with pro at your feet. If you blow the move then you hit the ledge. I TR'd this with a large group of climbers. They had a full range of experience from newb to 10+ climbers. None of the newish climbers could make the move off the ledge. The tallest climbers (6 ft) were able to easily make the moves. As a 5'2" 10 climber, I was able to make the moves, using a super high foot and matching on a tiny tiny crimp below the bomber horizontal. I would not have enjoyed leading it, the moves were only protected at my feet. Truth be told, this climb really annoyed most of the climbers in our party. It's only a 6, but most could not do it.
By AWinters
Administrator
From: NH
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this is gunks 5.7
By kenr
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves.

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