Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Mike Newman
Page Views: 8,012 total · 38/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson, RJ B

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.

Location Suggest change

On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.

Protection Suggest change

G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.

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