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The Golden Wall
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Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Scoop Arete T,TR 
Scoop Face T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Skink T,TR 
Skink Redirect TR 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

Skink 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Newman
Page Views: 3,602
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Skink

Description 

This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.


Location 

On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.


Protection 

G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.



Photos of Skink Slideshow Add Photo
Pawel is 6'7", so he ripped this one up.
Pawel is 6'7", so he ripped this one up.
top roping skink
top roping skink
This felt WAY harder than 5.6!  Also, I encountered a wasp nest right behind the top of the flake.
This felt WAY harder than 5.6! Also, I encountere...
Skink on a beautiful day.
Skink on a beautiful day.
Mike Coyle working on the crux of Skink. Definitely 5.8+ move if you're shorter.
Mike Coyle working on the crux of Skink. Definitel...
Comments on Skink Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

I am not sure how you could call this a G or PG climb if you are a shorty. You have to make the crux move off the ledge with pro at your feet. If you blow the move then you hit the ledge. I TR'd this with a large group of climbers. They had a full range of experience from newb to 10+ climbers. None of the newish climbers could make the move off the ledge. The tallest climbers (6 ft) were able to easily make the moves. As a 5'2" 10 climber, I was able to make the moves, using a super high foot and matching on a tiny tiny crimp below the bomber horizontal. I would not have enjoyed leading it, the moves were only protected at my feet. Truth be told, this climb really annoyed most of the climbers in our party. It's only a 6, but most could not do it.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this is gunks 5.7

By kenr
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.

Nice collection of interesting moves.