|The Golden Wall
|Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR
|Fickle Fingers T,TR
|Golden Dream, The T,TR
|Jam On! T,TR
|Scoop Arete T,TR
|Scoop Face T,TR
|Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T
|Skink Redirect TR
|Slot Machine T,TR
|Stinky Americans T,TR
|Super Skink TR
|Time for Therapy T,TR
This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.
On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.
G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.
Pawel is 6'7", so he ripped this one up.
top roping skink
This felt WAY harder than 5.6! Also, I encountere...
Skink on a beautiful day.
Mike Coyle working on the crux of Skink. Definitel...
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010
I am not sure how you could call this a G or PG climb if you are a shorty. You have to make the crux move off the ledge with pro at your feet. If you blow the move then you hit the ledge. I TR'd this with a large group of climbers. They had a full range of experience from newb to 10+ climbers. None of the newish climbers could make the move off the ledge. The tallest climbers (6 ft) were able to easily make the moves. As a 5'2" 10 climber, I was able to make the moves, using a super high foot and matching on a tiny tiny crimp below the bomber horizontal. I would not have enjoyed leading it, the moves were only protected at my feet. Truth be told, this climb really annoyed most of the climbers in our party. It's only a 6, but most could not do it.
|By Adam Winters|
From: the Shire
Nov 24, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
this is gunks 5.7
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The start of the hand-traverse is perhaps a bit more than 5 ft to the right. Pretty delicate to get into it, if much less than 5ft8in.
Nice collection of interesting moves.