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Skin The Cat 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith 7/01
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Starting up it

Description 

It's a trad climb in a sport climber's paradise, so needless to say it sees few ascents, but it is in fact a very cool climb. A short, stout crux on good gear. Once through the hard part, it eases up on the way to the chains. If you like hard crack climbing, why not bring a small rack up and fire this one.

Start on the slab, after 10 feet or so you get to the roof throw in some good gear (I put in a cam and a big nut), jam out the short roof, and gain a great hand jam over the lip. At this point, being creative, wedging your body in the corner, and using interesting foot work will get you where you want to be. The rest of the route is about 5.9 maybe, and is protected with small cams and nuts.

Location 

On the left side of the crag, look for the nice crack out the short roof....

Protection 

Trad gear to an anchor.... I found nuts and TCUs to be most useful....


Photos of Skin The Cat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping into the chains on my first all gear prot...
Clipping into the chains on my first all gear prot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting horizontal and realizing it is far from ov...
Getting horizontal and realizing it is far from ov...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty much in the clear, cruising up the 5.9- por...
Pretty much in the clear, cruising up the 5.9- por...
Rock Climbing Photo: Continuing up the horizontal chimney, maybe whimpe...
Continuing up the horizontal chimney, maybe whimpe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bonus photo, taking the sideways fall out of the c...
Bonus photo, taking the sideways fall out of the c...

Comments on Skin The Cat Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 20, 2011

Lee do you remember what size cam protects the crux?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 21, 2011

i think i used an orange tcu below the roof and a good sized nut just over it.... it has however been a long time since i was on it so i cant promise...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 22, 2011

At least it gives me an idea of the size, i am looking forward to getting on it this year =)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 8, 2015

As I remember it, yes, you place a solid piece or 2 and pull a boulder problem that's in the v4 range... It has been a long time but i remember some contortion and funky footwork... I should re visit this one sometime...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Do me a favor Eli and give it a scrub. I also want to climb it this summer. I hope it's as good as the other 12a trad at the Prudential. I don't have enough balls to lead it. I did it top rope.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Gear necessary in order:
#2 BD C4, one big nut, #1 TCU, small wires to the top.
Super fun route! If you thought the crux was over once you pulled over the roof into the chimney, you (like me) were wrong, the crux isnt over until youre out of the wild sideways shoulder scumming chimney. Good luck!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 14, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I tried it a couple of years ago and found it difficult to grab the hold out of the overhang. This past week end, I made it so easy. Kneebar, handjam then it's all over. Cool boulder problem. Too bad it's so short.

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