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Skin The Cat 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith 7/01
Page Views: 735
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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It's a trad climb in a sport climber's paradise, so needless to say it sees few ascents, but it is in fact a very cool climb. A short, stout crux on good gear. Once through the hard part, it eases up on the way to the chains. If you like hard crack climbing, why not bring a small rack up and fire this one.

Start on the slab, after 10 feet or so you get to the roof throw in some good gear (I put in a cam and a big nut), jam out the short roof, and gain a great hand jam over the lip. At this point, being creative, wedging your body in the corner, and using interesting foot work will get you where you want to be. The rest of the route is about 5.9 maybe, and is protected with small cams and nuts.


On the left side of the crag, look for the nice crack out the short roof....


Trad gear to an anchor.... I found nuts and TCUs to be most useful....

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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 20, 2011

Lee do you remember what size cam protects the crux?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 21, 2011

i think i used an orange tcu below the roof and a good sized nut just over it.... it has however been a long time since i was on it so i cant promise...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 22, 2011

At least it gives me an idea of the size, i am looking forward to getting on it this year =)
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Jun 8, 2015

I'm gearing up to do this one, do you think the crux is about V4? Any beta would be appreciated.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 8, 2015

As I remember it, yes, you place a solid piece or 2 and pull a boulder problem that's in the v4 range... It has been a long time but i remember some contortion and funky footwork... I should re visit this one sometime...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 8, 2015

Do me a favor Eli and give it a scrub. I also want to climb it this summer. I hope it's as good as the other 12a trad at the Prudential. I don't have enough balls to lead it. I did it top rope.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
5 days ago

Crux gear beta:
#2 BD Cam in the back of the dirty seam, extended draw.
One big (#11-13?) bomber nut at the crux, probably best non-extended. This will be at your waist when you are trying the funky funky moves.

The cam is pretty superfluous and can be placed retroactively, but it is better to have two pieces in than just one jesus nut.

To try this route and bail without losing gear is a non-intimidating prospect. It is possible to clean everything as you down climb the easier terrain, and pull out the nut that you fell on by hanging from a well placed .5 right below it.
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