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Skin The Cat 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith 7/01
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 31, 2007

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Description 

It's a trad climb in a sport climber's paradise, so needless to say it sees few ascents, but it is in fact a very cool climb.... A short, brutal crux on good gear. Once through the hard part, it eases up on the way to the chains.... If you like hard crack climbing, why not bring a small rack up and fire this one....

Start on the slab, after 10 feet or so you get to the roof throw in some good gear (I put in a Cand a big nut), jam out the short roof, and gain a great hand jam over the lip.... At this point, being creative, wedging your body in the corner, and using interesting foot work will get you where you want to be.... The rest of the route is about 5.9 maybe, and is protected with small cams and nuts....

Location 

On the left side of the crag, look for the nice crack out the short roof....

Protection 

Trad gear to an anchor.... I found nuts and TCUs to be most useful....


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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 20, 2011

Lee do you remember what size cam protects the crux?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 21, 2011

i think i used an orange tcu below the roof and a good sized nut just over it.... it has however been a long time since i was on it so i cant promise...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 22, 2011

At least it gives me an idea of the size, i am looking forward to getting on it this year =)