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 ADVANCED
Seal Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archaeopteryx T 
Choose Life S,TR 
Choose Muscle S 
East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 
East Face South Side T 
Jade Gate T 
Misbehaven T,TR 
Primate T,TR 
Sea of Joy S 
Shortcut (East Face) T 
Skin Flute T,TR 
Southwest Face T 
Supercell S 
Thunder Muscle S 

Skin Flute 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Peter Mortimer, Zach Barr
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 8, 2002

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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a new line immediately left of Jade Gate on the south face of Seal Rock, climbing more or less straight up the green face and through the diagonalling purple band at mid-height. It was done headpoint-style with gear placed ground-up on the first ascent but can easily be toproped with a static line and some big cams for the flake anchor near the left (southern) margin of Seal Rock's east slab.

Climb through a bulge on pockets, move right and place the 3" piece, then move back left and into a strenuous series of moves that take you left to a finger crack. Load the crack up, head up through the shattered purple rock to the base of the strange fluting/rib and pimp your way to a lip encounter. A fall off the finishing moves could be bad.

This route is about 100 feet up the south face as you head west along the gully. It climbs the green wall in the heavily forested area and is about 60 feet tall.

Protection 

RP's, #00 Metolius TCU, stoppers, two 1" pieces and one 3" piece


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By Sharon Sadleir Vaughan
Jul 22, 2002

Nice name Peter. Is it a phallic shaped formation?