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Skid Row Variation 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Stuart Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Getting set for the lip.

Description 

A steep roof variation, not quite as hard as it looks. The holds are there it is just a matter of getting set and making the move quickly.

Protection 

2 anchors at the top of the 5.9's. There also might be anchors just above the roof. Otherwise 2 draws for the variation plus 5 more to finish on either of the 5.9's.


Photos of Skid Row Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Photo of the start.  Crux is the last overhang in the shade,  Easy after you get over into the sunny part in the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the start. Crux is the last overhang in ...

Comments on Skid Row Variation Add Comment
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By Michael MacFadden
Jun 26, 2008

This route is pretty fun if you like bouldery starts. It feels V3-ish up and over the roof. It's just a matter of figuring out the sequence and moving through it efficiently. After the roof your just on a 5.9 face to the top.
By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Jun 23, 2012

That hold you're considering is as good, if not better, than it looks. Just go for it.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

the start is super fun, I managed to get on this lead by accident when I first came to S-curves thinking it was choir boy or chorus line, back then I was maybe leading 5.10b's. not a long enough hard section to call it in the 11's in my opinion.
By Erik R Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 5, 2013

I have to agree that it seems easier than 11b. I thought it was easier than the unknown 10d next to it. As always, grades are subjective but the holds are pretty good...
By Celina Suarez
May 28, 2013

I'd say 11b or a little harder if you are short (~5ft give or take). You end up on the roof with nothing but heel hooks for feet for a lot longer than taller folks who can use the lower ledge to stand.
By zenetopia
May 30, 2013

This is pretty fun. Cool moves, but i can't for the life of me figure out why it goes at 11b... much easier...
By alex reb.
Jun 17, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

fun short crux on the bottom overhang, easy fun climbing after.
most def. easier than its rating, id say 5.10d