Great description Carl. Clear and concise. I found myself on this route last year by mistake. I was told it was 10a ish. Half way up I knew it wasn't. Then, the same guy that told me it was 10ish appologized. He was looking at a different route in the guide. At this time I had never even toproped an 11, let alone lead one. To my surprise I made it through the crux clean. I blew it near the top on the sandy unprotectible yet easier terrain and took a 15 footer on my last piece (.5 camalot) that I placed a few feet above the last bolt. Some may find this placement unnecessary but I didn't mind having it. Someone caught a snap shot of my fall. See photo.
Did this route a year ago for the first time and was knocked unconscious from the whip I took after the last bolt. Did it again over the weekend and it is definitely a great route. Comforting to the ego to finally see that its more than 5.10! In my opinion its the best bolted route on Potash. Also, I did it without gear and it thought it was protected well enough with just the bolts other than at the very top where you cant get gear anyway.
Dane, isn't it ironic to say this route is well protected with just the bolts yet you were knocked unconsious from a fall on this very same route. You must have really hit your head hard. And, I really don't believe there is gear above the last bolt except for two feet about the last bolt. That's all.
By Sam Feuerborn From: Durango, CO Nov 29, 2009 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a PG13
Awesome climb for sure. its funny that the description should say something about hopping on it because it looks cool because that's exactly what i did and loved it. way harder than i anticipated and than i usually lead but still suuuuppppeeeerrr fun. wanna go back and lead it clean. would definitely recommend this route!
Greg, I was desperate at the top and stepped over the rope causing me to flip when i fell. I did this route in my second year climbing when i was stronger than i was smart. Went back again recently and i think the PG13 rating is warranted.
By Dave Alie From: Golden, CO Mar 20, 2014 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
I was another who got on this route after being assured it was 10a. Spoiler alert: it's not. I had plenty of time to piece this revelation together on my long way down from a fall near the top. While the bolts are good and protect the meat of the hard climbing, I definitely would not recommend treating this like a sport route. There are a couple committing, non-trivial moves before the cracks disappear, and the three central bolts arrive, that you definitely would not want to fall from if you had no gear below you. A small handful of cams to BD#1 should do you fine for supplemental gear, with a yellow and/or blue TCU (or similar) working nicely for the optional (recommended) top placement above the last bolt. Yes, it's only a couple feet above the bolt, and it's not the easiest piece to place, but the cams are good and it sure beats taking massive wingers on fixed hardware in soft sandstone! I wouldn't say it's PG-13 as fall is relatively clean and the top can be spooky but the moves to the chains are substantially easier than the crux sequence. My favorite route at Potash thus far!