Skank on the Hanglow  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Brendan O'Fallon, 2004 Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 19, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Chris Parks lookin' for love in the initial corner...

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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>> Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). The bottom of this route is a a light brown rock with some lichen and features, only the last 10' is in classic varnished windgate. No matter, it is a fun climb.

Go up the runout start (5.7 desert climbing) to reach a protectable flake and then a 4-5" crack. Take a red Camalot for placing in an awkward crack-in-a-pod when you are just starding to wonder if you are safe. You will know when to use it.

The wide crack progresses upward, getting narrower the whole time. After some distance is gained, you can step left and get between that and a second crack with perfect hand-jams. Both cracks are climbable and protectable.

Continue up to where you are deposited on parallel windgate cracks, the left one being a wider awkward pod and the right one being a narrowing splitter. Stem, jam, and lock through this crux to the anchors.

A good route, and a little atypical of Indian creek.

Protection 

A run of cams from 2.5 inches to 4 inches- heavy on the 3.5 and 4". One run of TCU's from .5" to 1.5"

Photos of Skank on the Hanglow Slideshow

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Chris Parks has made the crux transisition to the ...

Tony Bubb pulls the crux on 'Skank on the Hanglow'...