Skank on the Hanglow
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Chris Parks lookin' for love in the initial corner...
|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). The bottom of this route is a a light brown rock with some lichen and features, only the last 10' is in classic varnished windgate. No matter, it is a fun climb.
Go up the runout start (5.7 desert climbing) to reach a protectable flake and then a 4-5" crack. Take a red Camalot for placing in an awkward crack-in-a-pod when you are just starding to wonder if you are safe. You will know when to use it.
The wide crack progresses upward, getting narrower the whole time. After some distance is gained, you can step left and get between that and a second crack with perfect hand-jams. Both cracks are climbable and protectable.
Continue up to where you are deposited on parallel windgate cracks, the left one being a wider awkward pod and the right one being a narrowing splitter. Stem, jam, and lock through this crux to the anchors.
A good route, and a little atypical of Indian creek.
A run of cams from 2.5 inches to 4 inches- heavy on the 3.5 and 4". One run of TCU's from .5" to 1.5"
Chris Parks has made the crux transisition to the ...
Tony Bubb pulls the crux on 'Skank on the Hanglow'...
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jul 7, 2005
the move to the left crack is cool, just a bit tricky!