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Six Toe Rock
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Six Toe Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,538
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 28, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Near the top of pitch 2.


This route follows a continious crack system for two good pitches up Six Toe Rock. Pro is good and widely available. Rock quality is excellent and the line is direct.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.8Start with a tricky move off the ground to get situated in the crack above. Follow the crack for 90 more feet to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 95' 5.8+Continue up the crack until you reach a short section of offwidth (#4 camalot) just before the anchor.

Descent:2 Raps with a 60m rope from fixed anchors.


Standard rack up to 4"

Photos of Six Toe Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the route from the dome trail
BETA PHOTO: the route from the dome trail
Rock Climbing Photo: it was cruisy bro!
it was cruisy bro!
Rock Climbing Photo: What to do when you have nothing larger than a #2 ...
What to do when you have nothing larger than a #2 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: How to do it if u have the right gear! Jules butte...
How to do it if u have the right gear! Jules butte...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at Pitch 1 from base
BETA PHOTO: looking up at Pitch 1 from base
Rock Climbing Photo:

Comments on Six Toe Crack Add Comment
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By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Jun 22, 2010

You can do a third pitch of about 100' to the top of the formation. Take the dihedral up the right side, about 5.6. There are two nice new looking bolts and rap chains at the top, contrary to what the guidebook says.

The offwidth on pitch two can also be traversed around on the right (though I think this is part of the neighboring route, Chocksucker). Extra #0.75 - 1 camalots can come in handy to protect the traverse.
By Chris G.
From: Lakewood
Jun 17, 2013

Good route. The last 10-15 foot off width section is a little heady, its all there just commit.
By fivefun
Dec 2, 2013

The whole route is low angle with only a few 5.8 moves. The OW at the top is great fun and a good intro to #4 size crack climbing. Bring one and walk it all the way up for a top rope on lead.
By Muscrat
Nov 3, 2014

Strange, i have taken 1/2dz people up this, always thought it was 5.7? Good fun, and the offwidth can be done w/o pro (oops, forgot my #4) or step right and then back left. Fun either way. Offsets work well on all the climbs here, of which i know of six.
And the third pitch is not to be missed, not for the climb but for the top out, great views.
By CrimperE6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
May 31, 2015

Bit average , OW is the best bit. Easy on is better.
By Cat.
Jul 11, 2016

Another vote for doing the third pitch--the view from the top is dizzyingly gorgeous!

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