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Chocksucker T 
Six Toe Crack T 

Six Toe Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,377
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on May 28, 2004

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Near the top of pitch 2.

Description 

This route follows a continious crack system for two good pitches up Six Toe Rock. Pro is good and widely available. Rock quality is excellent and the line is direct.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.8Start with a tricky move off the ground to get situated in the crack above. Follow the crack for 90 more feet to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 95' 5.8+Continue up the crack until you reach a short section of offwidth (#4 camalot) just before the anchor.

Descent:2 Raps with a 60m rope from fixed anchors.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 4"


Photos of Six Toe Crack Slideshow Add Photo
the route from the dome trail
BETA PHOTO: the route from the dome trail
What to do when you have nothing larger than a #2 ...
What to do when you have nothing larger than a #2 ...

Comments on Six Toe Crack Add Comment
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By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Jun 22, 2010

You can do a third pitch of about 100' to the top of the formation. Take the dihedral up the right side, about 5.6. There are two nice new looking bolts and rap chains at the top, contrary to what the guidebook says.

The offwidth on pitch two can also be traversed around on the right (though I think this is part of the neighboring route, Chocksucker). Extra #0.75 - 1 camalots can come in handy to protect the traverse.
By Chris G.
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2013

Good route. The last 10-15 foot off width section is a little heady, its all there just commit.
By fivefun
Dec 2, 2013

The whole route is low angle with only a few 5.8 moves. The OW at the top is great fun and a good intro to #4 size crack climbing. Bring one and walk it all the way up for a top rope on lead.
By Muscrat
Nov 3, 2014

Strange, i have taken 1/2dz people up this, always thought it was 5.7? Good fun, and the offwidth can be done w/o pro (oops, forgot my #4) or step right and then back left. Fun either way. Offsets work well on all the climbs here, of which i know of six.
And the third pitch is not to be missed, not for the climb but for the top out, great views.